Oil leak repair Options

[FJ1200]

Greetings,

Fairly new to the forums and owner of a 1972 teener. I bought the car last spring with a slightly hot rodded 2.0 and a side shift conversion. The true upside is ZERO rust, I have a lift and have inspected every inch of the car.

The issue I have is that the oil filter flange is leaking badly (1qt/20 miles). Upon inspection it appears that the upper nut can not be removed without removing the oil cooler. I have new oil cooler seals and the oil filter flange gasket coming from Auto Atlanta. Question is, has anyone ever removed the filter flange in the car? I really would rather not perform an engine drop this week, but I will if needed.

Just a little background, until 5 yrs ago I was an Audi dealer shop foreman for 25 years. As a result the nuts and bolts don't bother me at all. It is more current time constraints and the want to drive the car.

Thanks,

Daniel

[930cabman]

I was chasing an oil leak at the front end and found one at one of the oil galley plugs, could see it seeping while the engine was running. Got her fixed but still have a bit leaking from the front end.

How many do NOT leak?

[Superhawk996]

I was chasing an oil leak at the front end and found one at one of the oil galley plugs, could see it seeping while the engine was running. Got her fixed but still have a bit leaking from the front end.

How many do NOT leak?

@930cabman

Many rebuilds are sealed with steel plugs. Difference in thermal expansion between aluminum case and steel plug doesn’t help. Factory used aluminum plugs for a reason.

[930cabman]

I was chasing an oil leak at the front end and found one at one of the oil galley plugs, could see it seeping while the engine was running. Got her fixed but still have a bit leaking from the front end.

How many do NOT leak?

@930cabman

Many rebuilds are sealed with steel plugs. Difference in thermal expansion between aluminum case and steel plug doesn’t help. Factory used aluminum plugs for a reason.

When I built the engine a year ago I used Earls aluminum plugs and have had two leak. I found one behind the flywheel (repaired prior to installing the engine) and most recent this one on the other end. I completed the repair laying on my back on the shop floor and removed the engine support bar. Still not easy access, but possible. Don't tell anyone but I used a tapered brass plug. Call me a DAPO, but the leak is stopped (for now)

[Superhawk996]

I was chasing an oil leak at the front end and found one at one of the oil galley plugs, could see it seeping while the engine was running. Got her fixed but still have a bit leaking from the front end.

How many do NOT leak?

@930cabman

Many rebuilds are sealed with steel plugs. Difference in thermal expansion between (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) aluminum case and steel plug doesn’t help. Factory used aluminum plugs for a reason.

When I built the engine a year ago I used Earls aluminum plugs and have had two leak. I found one behind the flywheel (repaired prior to installing the engine) and most recent this one on the other end. I completed the repair laying on my back on the shop floor and removed the engine support bar. Still not easy access, but possible. Don't tell anyone but I used a tapered brass plug. Call me a DAPO, but the leak is stopped (for now)

Brass better than steel since it’s much closer in thermal expansion to aluminum.

The trick I’ve found helpful for galley plugs in aluminum:

Heat the case and freeze the plug. I like to freeze the plug on dry ice. House freezer will work but you’ll get more shrink and more time for install of the plug on dry ice. Quickly install the NPT plug as deep as possible with a good interference fit using light coat of anti-seize on the plug to keep things moving easily during install. As the case cools you have an even tighter fit.

The downside is you’ll never get the Aluminum plug out. The aluminum hex will strip if you try. No worry - I had to drill the OEM galley plugs out initially. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)