2056 rebuild part THREE, GOT Data? Log works 3 Options

[rfinegan]

Here is a link to part one:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...117&hl=2056



I decide my t1 oil pump in my 2056 was doing me no favors with a smaller than ideal OD.
I still had the T4 oil pump from the 2.0 that was doing its job when I had a cam thrust bearing fail /knock, so I decided to pull it a part for inspection.
I will perform some measurements and get it cleaned up, if it turns out to be in good shape.
The pics look like a great core.

[rfinegan]

Happy day for a change in the garage

A world member set me up with a 4 post yoke for the engine stand (Thanks Nick)

[914sgofast2]

From your picture of the engine case mounted in the new stand, you might want to do a little research to find a cure for the RMS leak problem.

Take a look at the posts in the Facebook "4th Dimension Type 4 Porsche/VW Performance Group" or do a YouTube search for Jake Raby's video about how to fix leaking rear main seals on Type 4 engines. I recently saw that video and was surprised by Jake's comments.

Raby files two very small relief passages above and below the rear main bearing saddle area on one side the engine case to allow oil a path to drain out of the cavity between the main bearing and the seal/crank spacers so the rear main seal stays oil tight. Raby says the factory oil drain hole is too high in this area, as well as lacking any way for air to enter the cavity so the oil can drain back into the sump, thereby creating an air lock which prevents the oil in that area from escaping unless it forces its way past the rear main seal lip. Raby also said that while the factory started using a drain hole in the 2 liter cases, it never put a drain hole in the earlier 1.7 & 1.8 liter cases. Raby further claims the factory's drain hole in the 2 liter cases was too small in diameter and located too high in the bearing saddle area to properly drain the oil back into the sump.

He also said it really doesn't matter what brand of seal you use (Victor Reinz or Elring) these days if you don't make the new oil drain passages he described in his video. However, Raby does mention that the black SABO brand seals are no longer any good and should now be completely avoided because the SABO factory's seal mold has worn out. Another thing he mentioned is that the width of the rear main seals is different because the VW Type 4 engine cases and the Porsche engine cases take different width seals because of the different sizes of the flywheel & pilot bearings in the two types of engines.

Raby said he now uses a proprietary rear main seal he gets from one of his customers who sells all types of industrial seals. Raby uses that "mystery special" seal on all the Type 4 engines he builds these days. Raby won't sell it to the public (nor does the Type 4 Store) and Raby said it comes from an unnamed military helicopter's drive unit.

[rfinegan]

I linked to the Raby live stream in post 19
Now that I'm on the stand I will cut the drains on the one case 1/2 but I did not have issues with my rear leaking. Thanks for descriptive tips...

From your picture of the engine case mounted in the new stand, you might want to do a little research to find a cure for the RMS leak problem.

Take a look at the posts in the Facebook "4th Dimension Type 4 Porsche/VW Performance Group" or do a YouTube search for Jake Raby's video about how to fix leaking rear main seals on Type 4 engines. I recently saw that video and was surprised by Jake's comments.

Raby files two very small relief passages above and below the rear main bearing saddle area on one side the engine case to allow oil a path to drain out of the cavity between the main bearing and the seal/crank spacers so the rear main seal stays oil tight. Raby says the factory oil drain hole is too high in this area, as well as lacking any way for air to enter the cavity so the oil can drain back into the sump, thereby creating an air lock which prevents the oil in that area from escaping unless it forces its way past the rear main seal lip. Raby also said that while the factory started using a drain hole in the 2 liter cases, it never put a drain hole in the earlier 1.7 & 1.8 liter cases. Raby further claims the factory's drain hole in the 2 liter cases was too small in diameter and located too high in the bearing saddle area to properly drain the oil back into the sump.

He also said it really doesn't matter what brand of seal you use (Victor Reinz or Elring) these days if you don't make the new oil drain passages he described in his video. However, Raby does mention that the black SABO brand seals are no longer any good and should now be completely avoided because the SABO factory's seal mold has worn out. Another thing he mentioned is that the width of the rear main seals is different because the VW Type 4 engine cases and the Porsche engine cases take different width seals because of the different sizes of the flywheel & pilot bearings in the two types of engines.

Raby said he now uses a proprietary rear main seal he gets from one of his customers who sells all types of industrial seals. Raby uses that "mystery special" seal on all the Type 4 engines he builds these days. Raby won't sell it to the public (nor does the Type 4 Store) and Raby said it comes from an unnamed military helicopter's drive unit.