Clutch pedal travel excessive |
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Clutch pedal travel excessive |
peteinjp |
Apr 10 2023, 06:53 AM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 202 Joined: 15-July 21 From: Japan Member No.: 25,723 Region Association: None |
Not wanting to put any undue pressure on the TOB I pulled the cable end as far forward as i could while pushing the clutch lever as far back and adjusted the cable with no free play. Tube is good, cable, pressure plate, flywheel etc all have about 30,000kms. Pedal stop is low and yet I have to push the pedal all the way to the floor to keep from grinding in 1st and reverse. I can not pull the pedal back at all as described in the factory manual. It works but barely- the travel is too far even with the cable adjusted with slight pressure on the shift fork lever.
It seems to me there should always be just the slightest play in the cable- no?? Any thoughts? Pete |
peteinjp |
Apr 10 2023, 07:47 PM
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#2
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Member Group: Members Posts: 202 Joined: 15-July 21 From: Japan Member No.: 25,723 Region Association: None |
Thanks guys-
Tube in tunnel is clean: I can definitely tighten the cable more- that’s not a problem. The issue is that in doing so there is no free play between the cable and the release lever thus putting pressure on the TOB (and ultimately thrust surfaces in the engine?) If I adjust it to the point where the clutch release is 1/3 of the way from the floor I’d have significant pressure on the TOB but probably not enough to cause the clutch to slip. Shifting is ok when moving- just having a hard time with 1 and R at a standstill- especially R. I had this issue once before and tightened up the cable= problem gone. Pivot- I can not find any info in the factory manuals (engine flywheel or transaxle) about shimming specs. That said with the clutch fully depressed it seems I man getting close to hitting the the bell housing: and with the lever just touching the TOB I have lots of room so it does seem like shimming would be a good idea to prevent interference issues as the clutch wears. I have to tear the car down in the next year or so anyway so I'll take care of that then. Any more info on the said shims would be very helpful. That all said- it still does not seem like that would lessen the required throw. Am I over thinking the "pressure on the TOB thing?" Maybe my car just needs full travel to completely engage and release? The way it is not I can not get the free play at the pedal described in the factory lit. BTW I have ordered the rennline clevis but will stack some washers in for the time being to get a bit more adjustment. Thank again- Pete |
JamesM |
Apr 10 2023, 08:51 PM
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#3
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,922 Joined: 6-April 06 From: Kearns, UT Member No.: 5,834 Region Association: Intermountain Region |
That all said- it still does not seem like that would lessen the required throw. Am I over thinking the "pressure on the TOB thing?" Maybe my car just needs full travel to completely engage and release? The way it is not I can not get the free play at the pedal described in the factory lit. Yeah thats a huge gap there with the clutch fork. 'Something' with the clutch/linkage needs to be addressed. Could need more than just shimming the pivot, I would get in there and inspect everything (pressure plate, flywheel, etc) and replace all the bushings while you are at it. I suspect possibly a worn pressure plate + disc and/or collapsed pivot bushing as well. Shimming the pivot ball on the trans will probably have more impact on the clutch fork position than you might expect though. Given the geometry of the clutch fork with the pivot being very near the TB end, moving it a couple mm closer to the pressure plate can result in the cable end moving 1/2" or more forward. Pulling the trans with the motor in the car isnt to big a deal if you have the necessary tools. I have done it more than a few times. |
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