Clutch pedal travel excessive Options

[peteinjp]

Not wanting to put any undue pressure on the TOB I pulled the cable end as far forward as i could while pushing the clutch lever as far back and adjusted the cable with no free play. Tube is good, cable, pressure plate, flywheel etc all have about 30,000kms. Pedal stop is low and yet I have to push the pedal all the way to the floor to keep from grinding in 1st and reverse. I can not pull the pedal back at all as described in the factory manual. It works but barely- the travel is too far even with the cable adjusted with slight pressure on the shift fork lever.

It seems to me there should always be just the slightest play in the cable- no??


Any thoughts?

Pete

[peteinjp]

Shouldn't need to add in much if the flywheel hasn't been machined down too far. You will run out of throw before it disengages if it needs to be shimmed. However, DO make sure your transmission ground strap is fully grounded.

Flywheel is new- aase unit. All components have 30,000kms. The shift fork looks to be straight. I’ll check the ground strap for sure but the issue is the total throw.

Might be a tight pilot bearing if it ONLY grinds gears when stopped.

I'd determine where the clutch is starting to grab when the pedal is released.

If it's just off the floor……..

It’s just off the floor with the cable adjusted and under tension.

A winter stuck in Tacoma? Outdoors? Uncovered? …… Did you rinse every section of the exterior? I would have.

This has caused numerous problems and ultimately will require the car to be dissasbeled. I pulled all the carpet and interior and rinsed everything inside and out with Saltaway BTW I checked out the chimp sanctuary- very cool!

……..Doesn't matter how you adjust the cable, install spacers on it, or bend the clutch fork, the total range of motion of the clutch fork/throw out bearing is currently limited by its position in the housing.

Actually I have just a bit more room before hitting the housing- but not enough for long term as the disc wears.

It's possible the synchro's at 1 and reverse are shot

Transaxle was just rebuilt and shifts fine when I tighten the cable.

Not worth it for less than $5 in parts, and an afternoon of work.

Click in my sig for the free 31 paged of notes and look at the clutch adjustment section.

What I would give for an afternoon of free time these days…… that’s the real issue- haha. I have already downloaded your guide- great stuff. Thanks! I wonder if a m8 sealing washer might do the trick without the need for tape??? Might be a slick solution.

First step....remove trans.

Yep- for me that means taking the car off the road for the foreseeable future. But once my 911 is back up and running later this year thats what I’ll be doing.

I did double check the roll pin and was really hoping that was the culprit- but its perfect.

Thanks all for the support. I have one temp fix idea to shorten the throw and will report back. I’ll get this worked out.