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> really dumb question...but inquiring minds want to know, Nitrous - WTH
Type 47
post Apr 14 2023, 06:36 PM
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never saw a post about the juice. Just doesn't make sense for a type 4??
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technicalninja
post Apr 15 2023, 04:08 PM
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https://www.amazon.com/Nitrous-Oxide-Inject...d/dp/0931472164

If you're serious this book will show you how big time.

That author is stupid "old school" and an absolute wizard.

All his stuff is worth reading...

He's biggest in airflow modifications (head/manifold porting).

He likes to use 30 degree intake seats and his reasoning is sound and based in physics.

Biggest need with nitrous is a really good (oversized) exhaust path which the type 4 is lacking...

Properly done 50-75 hp gain should be possible on a type 4 and it should not badly reduce lifespan.

Main problem with nitrous is that most kits add the full amount of nitrous when the system is engaged hence the need to be 1/2 way through the rpm range at activation.

They now make progressive controllers that throttle the nitrous boost exactly like a carburator. These work great but by the time you get all you need for a progressive system you're at 1500-2000 dollars and you still have to buy the nitrous.

Make damn sure you have a source for nitrous bottle re-fills close by or you will not be happy with your nitrous set up.

When done exactly right (injecting liquid instead of gas) the cooling of the intake charge (100 degree drop) actually pulls more air through the intake than in non-nitrous mode.

The reason nitrous has a bad reputation is because folks don't understand all of the ramifications of using it and if a 100 hp shot feels great then a 150 hp shot should be that much better...

It breaks shit with too much nitrous too soon.

The guy with a single shot 300 hp system will ALWAYS be a full second slower over the quarter that that same system set up progressive.
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Superhawk996
post Apr 15 2023, 07:18 PM
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QUOTE(technicalninja @ Apr 15 2023, 05:08 PM) *


The reason nitrous has a bad reputation is because folks don't understand all of the ramifications of using it and if a 100 hp shot feels great then a 150 hp shot should be that much better...

It breaks shit with too much nitrous too soon.



What you just laid out is the essence of the American hot rodder. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

I’m going to keep saying this - regardless of what you do to hot rod a 914, a 16 year old in a Tesla is still going to lay waste to you in the 1/4 mile or stop light to stop light. . So to the OPs original question, I humbly suggest that any potential hot rodder needs to really think about what it is that’s trying to be accomplished.

I’ve been around the racing and hot rodding scene long enough to keep seeing the same things over and over. Very few consider the system implications of what they are doing.

If you’re lucky, the first thing to let go will be the clutch. They are cheap and easy to replace. Then they get the bright idea that what is needed is the “Stage 3” kit from We Go Fast Racing Inc. or whoever is promising their clutch and pressure plate is the greatest on the planet.

Next thing you know, axles, drive shaft U joints or whatever becomes the next fuse. So predictably, they upgrade the driveline to super Chro-Mo go fast parts.

Eventually they break the pinion or teeth start breaking off the ring gear.

Once the driveline is beefed up, then the engine failures start in earnest, bent rods, cracking crankshafts. Good times. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif)

Sometimes the order of the failures is swapped around depending on where the weak links in the vehicle are. Regardless, the same general song and dance occurs.

It usually only ends after they now have $20k or more “invested” into what started as a $10k car. Usually at that point they are tired, broke, and sell the car.
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ClayPerrine
post Apr 16 2023, 10:42 AM
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QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ Apr 15 2023, 08:18 PM) *

What you just laid out is the essence of the American hot rodder. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

I’m going to keep saying this - regardless of what you do to hot rod a 914, a 16 year old in a Tesla is still going to lay waste to you in the 1/4 mile or stop light to stop light. . So to the OPs original question, I humbly suggest that any potential hot rodder needs to really think about what it is that’s trying to be accomplished.

I’ve been around the racing and hot rodding scene long enough to keep seeing the same things over and over. Very few consider the system implications of what they are doing.

If you’re lucky, the first thing to let go will be the clutch. They are cheap and easy to replace. Then they get the bright idea that what is needed is the “Stage 3” kit from We Go Fast Racing Inc. or whoever is promising their clutch and pressure plate is the greatest on the planet.

Next thing you know, axles, drive shaft U joints or whatever becomes the next fuse. So predictably, they upgrade the driveline to super Chro-Mo go fast parts.

Eventually they break the pinion or teeth start breaking off the ring gear.

Once the driveline is beefed up, then the engine failures start in earnest, bent rods, cracking crankshafts. Good times. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif)

Sometimes the order of the failures is swapped around depending on where the weak links in the vehicle are. Regardless, the same general song and dance occurs.

It usually only ends after they now have $20k or more “invested” into what started as a $10k car. Usually at that point they are tired, broke, and sell the car.



This describes my car in High school. The combination of a 69 Firebird, income from a part time minimum wage job at Jack-In-The-Box, the need for more power and a lot of talent with little experience.

I did the research and built a hot rod motor for my car. It was great. But I ended up putting 14 automatic transmissions and 4 manuals in it before I finally built one that would last. Next I started blowing U-joints. Finally saved up enough to buy Lakewood U-joints, and then I blew up the differential 5 times. I eventually put a Ford 9 inch rear end under it with two differentials. One 3:90 geared for daily driving, and one 4:33 with welded spider gears for weekend drags.

Then I bought a 924 and started running autocross events. That led to meeting Betty, and the rest is history.




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