Clutch pedal travel excessive |
|
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG.
This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way. Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners. |
|
Clutch pedal travel excessive |
peteinjp |
Apr 10 2023, 06:53 AM
Post
#1
|
Member Group: Members Posts: 201 Joined: 15-July 21 From: Japan Member No.: 25,723 Region Association: None |
Not wanting to put any undue pressure on the TOB I pulled the cable end as far forward as i could while pushing the clutch lever as far back and adjusted the cable with no free play. Tube is good, cable, pressure plate, flywheel etc all have about 30,000kms. Pedal stop is low and yet I have to push the pedal all the way to the floor to keep from grinding in 1st and reverse. I can not pull the pedal back at all as described in the factory manual. It works but barely- the travel is too far even with the cable adjusted with slight pressure on the shift fork lever.
It seems to me there should always be just the slightest play in the cable- no?? Any thoughts? Pete |
Dave_Darling |
Apr 16 2023, 11:28 PM
Post
#2
|
914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 14,991 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
I've actually found that it is faster to just remove the transmission.
You need to remove the muffler to make room to slide the trans input shaft out of the flywheel and clutch. You need to remember to unfasten everything that connects the trans to anything else--including the ground strap! One or two of the fasteners that hold the gearbox onto the engine are accessed from the engine side. You must support the flywheel end of the motor with something that cannot collapse. A floor jack can collapse, and that will shear your motor mounts. (Don't ask how I know this.) If you can bench-press the ~75 lbs weight of the transmission, it's a lot easier to manhandle the box out from where it lives. Using a jack is very possible, but balancing it without messing up the pulley and pulley shroud is annoying. --DD |
ClayPerrine |
Apr 17 2023, 06:06 AM
Post
#3
|
Life's been good to me so far..... Group: Admin Posts: 15,514 Joined: 11-September 03 From: Hurst, TX. Member No.: 1,143 Region Association: NineFourteenerVille |
I've actually found that it is faster to just remove the transmission. You need to remove the muffler to make room to slide the trans input shaft out of the flywheel and clutch. You need to remember to unfasten everything that connects the trans to anything else--including the ground strap! One or two of the fasteners that hold the gearbox onto the engine are accessed from the engine side. You must support the flywheel end of the motor with something that cannot collapse. A floor jack can collapse, and that will shear your motor mounts. (Don't ask how I know this.) If you can bench-press the ~75 lbs weight of the transmission, it's a lot easier to manhandle the box out from where it lives. Using a jack is very possible, but balancing it without messing up the pulley and pulley shroud is annoying. --DD (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Your description of your car describes an MFI six in it, so it is way more complex than removing a type IV engine. Pulling the transmission on a lift is a lot easier than disconnecting all of the engine stuff if you don't need to do it. 1. Pull the muffler and the muffler hanger. 2. Disconnect the ground strap 3. Remove the shift linkage. 4. Unhook the CV joints. 5. Unhook the clutch and speedometer cables. 6. Remove the starter. 7. Remove the nuts holding the transmission to the engine. 8. Place a pole jack under the back edge of the engine and make sure it is touching the engine. 9. Put a transmission jack under the transmission, and remove the 4 8mm bolts holding the motor mounts to the body. 10. Slide the transmission rearward until the input shaft clears the clutch and lower it so you can remove it from the car. This takes me about 2 hours or less on my lift. If you go slow and double check everything, It should not take more than 3 hours. Far less than disconnecting everything in the engine compartment and dropping the motor. |
VaccaRabite |
Apr 17 2023, 06:29 AM
Post
#4
|
En Garde! Group: Admin Posts: 13,465 Joined: 15-December 03 From: Dallastown, PA Member No.: 1,435 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
I've actually found that it is faster to just remove the transmission. --DD (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Your description of your car describes an MFI six in it, so it is way more complex than removing a type IV engine. Pulling the transmission on a lift is a lot easier than disconnecting all of the engine stuff if you don't need to do it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I've gone both ways on this one. I just can't pull an engine as fast as Andy can. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) I do it the same way Clay mentioned but I don't bother to pull the starter off. Pull the trans off and bring it down to my chest. My starter is a hi-torque one so its a good bight lighter and less bulky then stock. Its not fun, per sey, but its a LOT less connecting then removing all the engine bay stuff and re-doing it later. The only hard part is getting the transmission lined up to the engine right during reinstall. But that's always a PITA - and when you get it right it just goes right on. Zach |
Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 7th June 2024 - 11:37 PM |
All rights reserved 914World.com © since 2002 |
914World.com is the fastest growing online 914 community! We have it all, classifieds, events, forums, vendors, parts, autocross, racing, technical articles, events calendar, newsletter, restoration, gallery, archives, history and more for your Porsche 914 ... |