Dual Weber IDF 40s, Carb Rookie question... Options

[malcolm2]

Hello everyone. I will preface by saying that this is an engine from a 914. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

But it is in my VW Bus. Just now getting it moving down the road. Everything is new.

Carbs are new and I am a carb rookie, as well. Bought them from Aircooled.net and had them cleaned and set-up for the bus. My 914 has L-Jet FI, this group has taught me enough about that system to be dangerous.

So here is my question for the carb experts. What should the Pump Valve spray look like? It seems erratic and drippy. It kicks in 1st as I open the throttle, not a spray but pore, really. I will say that I see that in all 4.

[r_towle]

I used two filters on my race car because the tank was toast.

I use one on either side of the fuel pump (because filters are cheap)
the inlet filter between tank and fuel pump is a race filter, can be taken apart and cleaned. It has a stone??? in it with tons of holes used as the filter.

That was the one that I kept having to clean.
a new tank fixed my issue, but I left two filters in place because it protects the fuel pump...

I can fix any issue on the side of the road by cleaning up that race filter with some carb cleaner.....so I like that.

For the OP
Carbs do not (aside from the accel pump) squirt fuel.
Fuel is sucked into the engine by the motor, via the carbs.

So, your adjustments are three.
One, the size of the Venturi really matters...the smaller it is, the faster the suction velocity. Standard Webers are all wrong when we buy them.
Get to the 28mm vents before you get super frustrated.
It will always be a bit sluggish without doing that first step.
It will run, it can be tuned...but it will always be meh.

Suction matching on the engine is dependent upon the intake and exhaust valves being identical in adjustment over all 4 cylinders.
If one of them is wrong (one of yours is wrong...I can hear it) then the suction on that cylinder will be different from the other three.

Get the valves perfect.
Take your time....and get used to doing it.
Its not a terrible job if you learn the easy way to get it done.
I think (maybe) Cap'n Crusty did a write up on how he did it in the Classics forum here...at least I hope that still exists (RIP Cap'n)

Idle jets...
Pretty simple jet, but its the one that does a lot of the work.
Perfectly tuned at idle matters a ton.

Mains are just flood gates, when you need them (high rpms) and you won't feel them....idle is the key jet.

the Access pumps are typically setup wrong from the seller
The floats are typically setup wrong from the seller
The jets....remove and verify each on (there are tiny numbers on them)

Trust but verify.


Rich