Dual Weber IDF 40s, Carb Rookie question... Options

[malcolm2]

Hello everyone. I will preface by saying that this is an engine from a 914. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

But it is in my VW Bus. Just now getting it moving down the road. Everything is new.

Carbs are new and I am a carb rookie, as well. Bought them from Aircooled.net and had them cleaned and set-up for the bus. My 914 has L-Jet FI, this group has taught me enough about that system to be dangerous.

So here is my question for the carb experts. What should the Pump Valve spray look like? It seems erratic and drippy. It kicks in 1st as I open the throttle, not a spray but pore, really. I will say that I see that in all 4.

[r_towle]

In theory you are right.
The proper specification is 10mm, but you can set it as you choose.

I would suggest you verify the needle valve is seating properly with no dirt or obstruction then you are done with this step.

Remove and verify your jets are correct, and properly seated.
Then move to validate your accel pump, gaskets, settings etc.
The pump needs to be right

[malcolm2]

In theory you are right.
The proper specification is 10mm, but you can set it as you choose.

I would suggest you verify the needle valve is seating properly with no dirt or obstruction then you are done with this step.

Remove and verify your jets are correct, and properly seated.
Then move to validate your accel pump, gaskets, settings etc.
The pump needs to be right

I removed the floats and dropped the needle valves, I see no dirt in the needle valves. Jets have all been removed and verified with the spec sheet.

I did remove the pump cover and checked under the pump. Springs are there. It seems to activate the jets nicely on the bench.

Someone mentioned the pump adjustment is set with the threaded rod and nut, but Number of threads??? Is that the check? how many?

While on the bench, I loaded the bowls with carb cleaner and activated the throttle. The pump jets were straight and true, I saw no leakage.

[Superhawk996]

In theory you are right.
The proper specification is 10mm, but you can set it as you choose.

I would suggest you verify the needle valve is seating properly with no dirt or obstruction then you are done with this step.

Remove and verify your jets are correct, and properly seated.
Then move to validate your accel pump, gaskets, settings etc.
The pump needs to be right

I removed the floats and dropped the needle valves, I see no dirt in the needle valves. Jets have all been removed and verified with the spec sheet.

I did remove the pump cover and checked under the pump. Springs are there. It seems to activate the jets nicely on the bench.

Someone mentioned the pump adjustment is set with the threaded rod and nut, but Number of threads??? Is that the check? how many?

While on the bench, I loaded the bowls with carb cleaner and activated the throttle. The pump jets were straight and true, I saw no leakage.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

So you know that isn’t the problem - go back to the tuning basics - best idle, balance airflow, sync carbs. Don’t mess with the accelerator pump linkage - if you’re spraying a steady stream on the bench - it’s OK and the issue is elsewhere.

Although I didn’t pick it up in the video - take the prior suggestion to heart that Member CGNJ mentioned. Make sure you’re running on all 4 cyclinders. That is assumed before any attempt to tune