Clutch pedal travel excessive |
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Clutch pedal travel excessive |
peteinjp |
Apr 10 2023, 06:53 AM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 201 Joined: 15-July 21 From: Japan Member No.: 25,723 Region Association: None |
Not wanting to put any undue pressure on the TOB I pulled the cable end as far forward as i could while pushing the clutch lever as far back and adjusted the cable with no free play. Tube is good, cable, pressure plate, flywheel etc all have about 30,000kms. Pedal stop is low and yet I have to push the pedal all the way to the floor to keep from grinding in 1st and reverse. I can not pull the pedal back at all as described in the factory manual. It works but barely- the travel is too far even with the cable adjusted with slight pressure on the shift fork lever.
It seems to me there should always be just the slightest play in the cable- no?? Any thoughts? Pete |
peteinjp |
Apr 14 2023, 06:36 PM
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#2
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Member Group: Members Posts: 201 Joined: 15-July 21 From: Japan Member No.: 25,723 Region Association: None |
Shouldn't need to add in much if the flywheel hasn't been machined down too far. You will run out of throw before it disengages if it needs to be shimmed. However, DO make sure your transmission ground strap is fully grounded. Flywheel is new- aase unit. All components have 30,000kms. The shift fork looks to be straight. I’ll check the ground strap for sure but the issue is the total throw. Might be a tight pilot bearing if it ONLY grinds gears when stopped. I'd determine where the clutch is starting to grab when the pedal is released. If it's just off the floor…….. It’s just off the floor with the cable adjusted and under tension. A winter stuck in Tacoma? Outdoors? Uncovered? …… Did you rinse every section of the exterior? I would have. This has caused numerous problems and ultimately will require the car to be dissasbeled. I pulled all the carpet and interior and rinsed everything inside and out with Saltaway BTW I checked out the chimp sanctuary- very cool! ……..Doesn't matter how you adjust the cable, install spacers on it, or bend the clutch fork, the total range of motion of the clutch fork/throw out bearing is currently limited by its position in the housing. Actually I have just a bit more room before hitting the housing- but not enough for long term as the disc wears. It's possible the synchro's at 1 and reverse are shot Transaxle was just rebuilt and shifts fine when I tighten the cable. Not worth it for less than $5 in parts, and an afternoon of work. Click in my sig for the free 31 paged of notes and look at the clutch adjustment section. What I would give for an afternoon of free time these days…… that’s the real issue- haha. I have already downloaded your guide- great stuff. Thanks! I wonder if a m8 sealing washer might do the trick without the need for tape??? Might be a slick solution. First step....remove trans. Yep- for me that means taking the car off the road for the foreseeable future. But once my 911 is back up and running later this year thats what I’ll be doing. I did double check the roll pin and was really hoping that was the culprit- but its perfect. Thanks all for the support. I have one temp fix idea to shorten the throw and will report back. I’ll get this worked out. |
JamesM |
May 3 2023, 11:16 AM
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#3
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,915 Joined: 6-April 06 From: Kearns, UT Member No.: 5,834 Region Association: Intermountain Region |
Probably not what you want to hear but personally, if it were me and now that its out, I would replace:
Flywheel - as the ring gear is trashed Starter - as it trashed the ring gear Pressure plate - appears to have an unusual amount of wear where it contacts the Throwout bearing for having only ~18k miles, and I have learned NEVER to trust used pressure plates anyways. Clutch disk- just a given as you are replacing the flywheel and pressure plate Throwout bearing - Definitely inspect, possibly replace as its unclear why the pressure plate teeth are worn the way they are. I would probably just replace on principal. All the shift fork bushings - because they are cheep and you are in there. Then test fit the trans (bolts needs to be tightened) and inspect the position of the clutch fork. then possibly pull the trans back out and shim the pivot ball. I have had to shim these even with all new components to get them perfect. Given you are replacing a lot of wear items that will impact the position of the clutch fork though test fit BEFORE adding the shims as it doesn't take much to bring that fork all the way forward. Even if you dont think you are running out of clutch fork travel before disengagement, still get that fork shimmed as far forward as possible without contacting the housing as it will improve the feel of the clutch pedal. |
porschetub |
May 3 2023, 05:21 PM
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#4
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,705 Joined: 25-July 15 From: New Zealand Member No.: 18,995 Region Association: None |
Probably not what you want to hear but personally, if it were me and now that its out, I would replace: Flywheel - as the ring gear is trashed Starter - as it trashed the ring gear Pressure plate - appears to have an unusual amount of wear where it contacts the Throwout bearing for having only ~18k miles, and I have learned NEVER to trust used pressure plates anyways. Clutch disk- just a given as you are replacing the flywheel and pressure plate Throwout bearing - Definitely inspect, possibly replace as its unclear why the pressure plate teeth are worn the way they are. I would probably just replace on principal. All the shift fork bushings - because they are cheep and you are in there. Then test fit the trans (bolts needs to be tightened) and inspect the position of the clutch fork. then possibly pull the trans back out and shim the pivot ball. I have had to shim these even with all new components to get them perfect. Given you are replacing a lot of wear items that will impact the position of the clutch fork though test fit BEFORE adding the shims as it doesn't take much to bring that fork all the way forward. Even if you dont think you are running out of clutch fork travel before disengagement, still get that fork shimmed as far forward as possible without contacting the housing as it will improve the feel of the clutch pedal. I think that is a lot of wear on the pressure plate fingers for that mileage as mentioned ,also looks like there are chatter marks on the contact face as superhawk pointed out,maybe the disk centre is a bit loose ,worth checking that and also make sure the springs aren't loose ,IMO there is more wrong to the OP's issues that the release arm travel and the rest needs checking for such a low mileage. Reckon those starters are shite,appears many have had issues with them and unsure why some think this is an upgrade as the stock starter works fine in good condition,my own car is running "4" Bosch starter and have never had a problem ,have a 911 spare starter but haven't fitted it for that reason. I added 1mm spacer to my ball pivot and it made a real differance,my flywheel was in great condition but had been resurfaced but still in spec as luck would have it. Cheers. |
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