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peteinjp |
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#1
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 211 Joined: 15-July 21 From: Japan Member No.: 25,723 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
Its not a huge deal to separate the hoses but if changing the oil often it would be nice to plumb in a valve or some type of plug to reduce long term wear on the hose seal. Anyone done this? Or any other thoughts?
Pete |
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peteinjp |
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#2
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 211 Joined: 15-July 21 From: Japan Member No.: 25,723 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
So you just cut the stock hose to make that correct? What does a check valve do for you?
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fixer34 |
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#3
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,271 Joined: 16-September 14 From: Chicago area Member No.: 17,908 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() ![]() |
So you just cut the stock hose to make that correct? What does a check valve do for you? It's been 6 years since I put 1000 miles on my -6, plus I did almost a full drain when I installed a check valve a couple years ago. Doing regular oil changes by disconnecting a hose is not an issue right now. On a -6 that isn't driven often, the oil in the tank can seep back into the engine sump. If all the seals are tight, it can fill to the point where oil leaks past the rings and you get a lot of blue smoke when starting. In extreme cases, it fills the case to the point where the engine won't start. With mine, I have a leak somewhere that lets the oil in the case drip onto the garage floor when it gets too full, to the point I used to lose 2-3 quarts over several months. That is why I went with a Rothsport check valve. I still get a leak, but it is on the order of a few tablespoons over a couple months now. 'Some day' I'll fix it, just need to figure out when the some day will be. |
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