Head removal while engine in car ?, Can heads be removed from engine while engine in car? Options

[pistonboy]

Hello

Can heads be removed from a 914 engine without removing the engine from the car?

Thank you.

[914sgofast2]

I think some people just like to do things the most difficult way possible. It could probably be done, but who wants to spend hours laying on their back and fighting with every nut and bolt you need to remove to loosen and remove the exhaust system, intake manifold, cylinder tins, and then finally the head, just to say you changed a head without removing the engine from the car?

[Superhawk996]

I think some people just like to do things the most difficult way possible.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Ya’ all making it too complicated.

Drain oil?
Remove exhaust?
External oil coolers?

Those are choices to add more work. Not mandatory to remove a basically stock engine. Yea pic below is carbureted but it will all still come out as an assembly with FI.

[VaccaRabite]

I think some people just like to do things the most difficult way possible.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Ya’ all making it too complicated.


Remove exhaust?


Those are choices to add more work. Not mandatory to remove a basically stock engine. Yea pic below is carbureted but it will all still come out as an assembly with FI.

Not being at all sarcastic. How do you remove the engine without pulling off the exhaust? Are you pulling the axles out of the car? If not how are you manipulating the shafts and CVs to get them out of the way?

Zach

[Superhawk996]

Not being at all sarcastic. How do you remove the engine without pulling off the exhaust? Are you pulling the axles out of the car? If not how are you manipulating the shafts and CVs to get them out of the way?

Zach

Axles live above the heat exchangers right? So, it’s just disconnecting the CV’s and manipulating them up and over the top of the transaxle and the engine as that assembly goes down and rearward.

I wrap the CV joints in double Zip-Loc freezer bags or cover them with heavy duty 7mil plastic garbage bag plastic so they don’t get contaminated when manipulating them in the instance where they occasionally bump the trans in the process of flipping around. Sometimes the assembly has to wiggle side to side a little here or there in that process. Having the exhaust / heat exchangers on it is sort of like having handlebars. Makes it easy to wiggle . Now keep in mind, not exerting any serious leverage on them - don’t want to stress exhaust studs or put any real force into the heads. By keeping the muffler support bracket in place it also keeps the heat exchangers from twisting around and putting stress on the heads. If something isn’t going right - just block it temporarily and readjust.

It’s a matter of having the rear end of the car high enough so that the when the assembly is lowered, the axles can then be guided over the engine as the assembly is pulled rearward from under the car. 10 -15 minutes spent ensuring the car is high enough before starting saves hours of frustration trying to pull an engine if the vehicle isn’t high enough. I’ve learned that lesson the hard way decades ago.

Picture I posted was done by me alone (dog only supervises), with a single hydraulic jack, and the tangerine engine plate . No tricks like using a 2 post hoist or anything like that.