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Txbentleyboy |
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#1
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 73 Joined: 15-October 16 From: Davidson County, NC, USA Member No.: 20,498 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region ![]() ![]() |
Does the engine need to be removed to change the seals?
Any and all thoughts are appreciated! |
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GregAmy |
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#2
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,311 Joined: 22-February 13 From: Middletown CT Member No.: 15,565 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
I think it's hateful enough of a job trying to do it in the car (you have to remove studs to get the cooler clear) that you may find it worthwhile to remove the drivertain first.
However, when I was removing my drivertain yesterday to get to something behind the fan housing, I looked at it closely and I think that if you remove the sheet metal at the front of the engine, you may have enough space to remove the fan, alternator, and fan housing. From there it's a lot easier work (and would probably make an alternator swap a lot easier, too).. I've never done it in the car, so "caveat emptor". - GA |
GregAmy |
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#3
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,311 Joined: 22-February 13 From: Middletown CT Member No.: 15,565 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
...I think that if you remove the sheet metal at the front of the engine, you may have enough space to remove the fan, alternator, and fan housing... When I was tidying up the engine tin and stuffing the drivetrain yesterday, I gave this a closer look. I'm more convinced that you can remove the front engine tin and you *might* have enough space to get the fan housing off while it's still in the car. One screw underneath, six(?) screws on top, and the front tray/tin should lift out. Working underneath you can get to the fan bolts, which upon removal then allows you to remove the housing. I may try that next time I need to work on the front of the engine. Though it only took me a couple hours solo to remove the drivetrain (I have a lift). GA P.S. Of course, if you try that method, you would be wise to go ahead and replace the front crank seal and o-ring behind the hub (torque to 23 ft-lbs with blue loctite!) and even give reasonable thought to re-sealing the oil pump... |
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