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sdoolin |
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 417 Joined: 1-May 14 From: LouKY Member No.: 17,299 Region Association: None ![]() |
Rebuilt my 2.0 back in 2016. Full "Raby Spec" 2056. Runs very well. It is out of the car right now as I am dealing with a rusty battery tray (separate thread on that). It appears that I have leaks at most/all of the pushrod tube seals, the valve cover seals, and the rear main seal. This is not a surprise to me, I clean the bottom of the engine regularly, and knew this day was coming
Pretty sure I used the Victor Reinz gasket set that came with my engine "kit" from the Type IV Store. I used the cork valve cover seals from the Victor Reinz set. I did not use any RTV anywhere. Hate the stuff. I know I used a rear main seal from GoWesty as someone back then had suggested it is a better part then what is included with the Victor Reinz set. I installed new pushrod tubes and used the O-Rings from the Victor Reinz set. Does anyone really have an oil tight VW Type IV engine? If yes, how does none do that? |
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Superhawk996 |
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 7,028 Joined: 25-August 18 From: Woods of N. Idaho Member No.: 22,428 Region Association: Galt's Gulch ![]() ![]() |
Collet style stud install and removal tools specific to size and thread pitch are the best tool that will not damage threads.
I’ve never had intake studs break when being removed. My guess is they used some Loctite - need more heat! Aluminum is a great Thermal conductor and moves heat away quickly. Plus the head and fins are helping to radiate the heat away and out of the head. You’ll need a lot of heat - like Oxy-Acetylene or the propane / MAPP gas for a while. Heat the head around the stud - avoiding the stud or wrap stud with wet cloth to keep it cool. You want the aluminum to expand - not the stud. These appear to be knockoff of Snap-on / Matco set I’ve used for about 1/3 the price ![]() |
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 9th May 2025 - 06:37 PM |
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