Wiring Help Needed, How to keep it clean Options

[NARP74]

I have another thread on a blinker short issue that I am still stuck on.
I was hoping to be able to keep that issue separate from some dodgy add on PO wiring. But alas they have merged and I cannot avoid it anymore. I was doing a test drive last week and I had to turn the steering wheel lock to lock for a parking situation. When I did that I heard crunching. My turn signal issue went from bad to worse and I saw new wires hanging down. A PO had routed wires in and around the steering shaft and turning full lock grabbed them and broke some connections. Sure, I have time to fix that, now top of the list.

So the question is;
I have seen some people with great examples of wiring, mostly in build threads. I can't go back and search those for pics. I don't remember where they were. So I decided to ask in a new thread.
Does anyone have pics, examples, suggestions of aftermarket wiring and how to run them for nice looking, safe routing and reliable function?
Just routing them in and around brackets and using cable ties is not working for me.
I think I remember Brock, RIP had some nice examples, but have not found them.

Car has;
Gates 5 gauge cluster
Center console with 3 more gauges, someone liked gauges
After market stereo and sub wiring, but nothing installed
Relocated fuel pump, in the front, and wiring
Elec washer fluid pump and wiring
Some interesting fuse panel connections
All done poorly in my opinion

Mostly looking for cable management type solutions and routing but all things electrical are welcome.

[technicalninja]

I'll use bread bag wire ties to "set up" my harnesses. You can untwist and add stuff to you hearts content. Only after everything is done and everything tests out OK do i go back, remove bread ties and finish the "pretty". Where the bread ties were (at the branching points) I'll add a couple of wraps of Scotch 88 tape. This will hold the harness together when you either tape the entire thing (PIA) or add plastic conduit, much easier to install, massively easier to change down the road, but doesn't look stock at all.

Years ago, I purchased a conduit kit from WayTek wiring that I'm still using today.
Couldn't find it but this one from Amazon is much cheaper.

https://www.amazon.com/Split-Wire-Conduit-P...02ebfcafbbcb146

I'm a believer in heat shrink for harness control as well, sometimes it is impossible to get it over the harness plugs and ends.

Another tip is don't stretch the electrical tape when you are detaching a piece from the roll. Stretched, the tape will unravel with time. I use a small pair of scissors to cut it from the roll.

I prefer the woven covering if available. Some of it is split, some not.
I like the non-split stuff. You can "compress" it which increases the ID to allow it to go over the connectors.

Split version:
https://www.amazon.com/stores/page/31336C55...ba-2e57e0dd9b84

Non-split version:
https://www.amazon.com/100ft-Expandable-Bra...WF0aWM&th=1

What I like best for appearance is the non-split woven loom with heat shrink collars on either end.
This ends up looking GREAT but done this way it is an ABSOLUTE BITCH to "go back in".

Overall, the split plastic conduit and high-quality electrical tape is easiest in my book.

Tygaboy's suggestions are excellent.

Practice makes perfect!
You will be substantially better at this after a few hours of practice. You finished product at the 5-hour point will be SO much better than when you started that you may "go back" and clean your first attempts up.

There are two basic types of heat shrink. Type 1 and 2. The type 2 has adhesive lining the inside of the shrink tube and is FREAKING permanent. You will have real trouble trying to salvage the wiring if you have to go back in.
The type 2 is watertight. When it's done correctly no electrolyte intrusion means no corrosion down the road, basically forever.

I use type 2 exclusively now...