I have another thread on a blinker short issue that I am still stuck on.
I was hoping to be able to keep that issue separate from some dodgy add on PO wiring. But alas they have merged and I cannot avoid it anymore. I was doing a test drive last week and I had to turn the steering wheel lock to lock for a parking situation. When I did that I heard crunching. My turn signal issue went from bad to worse and I saw new wires hanging down. A PO had routed wires in and around the steering shaft and turning full lock grabbed them and broke some connections. Sure, I have time to fix that, now top of the list.

So the question is;
I have seen some people with great examples of wiring, mostly in build threads. I can't go back and search those for pics. I don't remember where they were. So I decided to ask in a new thread.
Does anyone have pics, examples, suggestions of aftermarket wiring and how to run them for nice looking, safe routing and reliable function?
Just routing them in and around brackets and using cable ties is not working for me.
I think I remember Brock, RIP had some nice examples, but have not found them.

Car has;
Gates 5 gauge cluster
Center console with 3 more gauges, someone liked gauges
After market stereo and sub wiring, but nothing installed
Relocated fuel pump, in the front, and wiring
Elec washer fluid pump and wiring
Some interesting fuse panel connections
All done poorly in my opinion

Mostly looking for cable management type solutions and routing but all things electrical are welcome.

Not sure how much help it may be, but I'm working on wiring my '74 now:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...t&p=3109688

All my wiring ideas have be stolen from SuperFastMatt:
https://youtu.be/pSXv8RHa22I?si=xm9A8YfMgOYm8T7A

Every little bit helps. Thanks I'll take a look. I'm OK making solid connections etc. making it look pretty is not my strength.

So I guess I stumbled on the most feared or most despised part of working on old cars. And the weak link in the support realm. Wiring! Over 100 views, 1 good reply and then it falls off the 1st page.

Does anyone have pics of good wire routing and organization in a 914? Especially under the dash for gauge wires and audio wires.

I was terrified of wiring but had to face wiring my entire car from scratch, based on what I wanted to do with my build. Rather than guess, I opted to take some on-line courses.
I went with HP Academy. I took every wiring class they offered. I then wired my car: engine harness, PMU integration, chassis harness... Every wire and connection in the car.
Everything worked from day 1. I can't recommend HP Academy highly enough.

At this point, I have absolutely no fear of wiring and actually enjoy doing it!

Take the courses, add a valuable skill set to your mental tool box and (sung to the famous Blue Oyster Cult classic) "Don't Fear the Crimper"

https://www.hpacademy.com/

Interesting tip, thank you! And they are having a sale.

I'll use bread bag wire ties to "set up" my harnesses. You can untwist and add stuff to you hearts content. Only after everything is done and everything tests out OK do i go back, remove bread ties and finish the "pretty". Where the bread ties were (at the branching points) I'll add a couple of wraps of Scotch 88 tape. This will hold the harness together when you either tape the entire thing (PIA) or add plastic conduit, much easier to install, massively easier to change down the road, but doesn't look stock at all.

Years ago, I purchased a conduit kit from WayTek wiring that I'm still using today.
Couldn't find it but this one from Amazon is much cheaper.

https://www.amazon.com/Split-Wire-Conduit-P...02ebfcafbbcb146

I'm a believer in heat shrink for harness control as well, sometimes it is impossible to get it over the harness plugs and ends.

Another tip is don't stretch the electrical tape when you are detaching a piece from the roll. Stretched, the tape will unravel with time. I use a small pair of scissors to cut it from the roll.

I prefer the woven covering if available. Some of it is split, some not.
I like the non-split stuff. You can "compress" it which increases the ID to allow it to go over the connectors.

Split version:
https://www.amazon.com/stores/page/31336C55...ba-2e57e0dd9b84

Non-split version:
https://www.amazon.com/100ft-Expandable-Bra...WF0aWM&th=1

What I like best for appearance is the non-split woven loom with heat shrink collars on either end.
This ends up looking GREAT but done this way it is an ABSOLUTE BITCH to "go back in".

Overall, the split plastic conduit and high-quality electrical tape is easiest in my book.

Tygaboy's suggestions are excellent.

Practice makes perfect!
You will be substantially better at this after a few hours of practice. You finished product at the 5-hour point will be SO much better than when you started that you may "go back" and clean your first attempts up.

There are two basic types of heat shrink. Type 1 and 2. The type 2 has adhesive lining the inside of the shrink tube and is FREAKING permanent. You will have real trouble trying to salvage the wiring if you have to go back in.
The type 2 is watertight. When it's done correctly no electrolyte intrusion means no corrosion down the road, basically forever.

I use type 2 exclusively now...

Since this group likes pictures. The other side has wrapped wires too.
Click to view attachment

@tygaboy

Another thumbs up for HP Academy. Chris turned me onto this amazing resource. I just took the first basic class as my needs were pretty simple. The instruction was broken into digestable sections with very specific, clear concise content. I learned a ton of basics that I apply to all my wiring and wiring planning. Good review of all the basic materials and tools to make up neat and functional wiring harnesses.

The advanced instruction looked pretty mind blowing and way over my head. HP Academy technicians...wow these guys are really smart.

my two cents

Not sure if I can help since I recycled my original harness, after completely removing, repairing, and cleaning it. If you ever think you might do that, then I suggest leaving original wires intact. Perhaps jumpers are better than splices?

Best if the original harness can be saved. I like soldered splices

Copy that big time. I solder my splices too. I don't cut any strands either. I use a thermal insulation stripper. I bought a used harness years back & used it to provide stock material for splices. Happy New Year!!!