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TINKERGINEERING |
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#1
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 219 Joined: 15-March 20 From: Sierra Madre, CA Member No.: 24,031 Region Association: Southern California ![]() ![]() |
Hi. Frances and Dan from Tinkergineering here. Do these [see photo] end mounting brackets need to get pressed out, and if so how do I do that? should I need to heat it up? We got the front and rear suspension all removed. I know Ian had talked about the turbo tie rods. Why is this upgrade important/wanted?
keep on tinkering! Attached image(s) ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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Chris914n6 |
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#2
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Jackstands are my life. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,466 Joined: 14-March 03 From: Las Vegas, NV Member No.: 431 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() |
Bushings are a good example of 'if it ain't broke..." They are not easy and a press is recommended. I'd leave them be and just clean up the metal.
Turbo tie rods are not that much better or I should say the stock rods are not bad. The inner bushing gets worn so if it's sloppy do the change over. Check for slop in the rack too. Also the rubber coupler between the rack and the steering shaft. |
barefoot |
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#3
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,371 Joined: 19-March 13 From: Charleston SC Member No.: 15,673 Region Association: South East States ![]() ![]() |
Bushings are a good example of 'if it ain't broke..." They are not easy and a press is recommended. I'd leave them be and just clean up the metal. Turbo tie rods are not that much better or I should say the stock rods are not bad. The inner bushing gets worn so if it's sloppy do the change over. Check for slop in the rack too. Also the rubber coupler between the rack and the steering shaft. The rear bushing is probably the only one needing replacement as it carries most of the vertical load and over time collapses so the torsion bar starts rubbing inside the LCR destroying the protective coating. That leads to failure due to corrosion fatigue cracking. |
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