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TINKERGINEERING |
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 219 Joined: 15-March 20 From: Sierra Madre, CA Member No.: 24,031 Region Association: Southern California ![]() ![]() |
Hi. Frances and Dan from Tinkergineering here. Do these [see photo] end mounting brackets need to get pressed out, and if so how do I do that? should I need to heat it up? We got the front and rear suspension all removed. I know Ian had talked about the turbo tie rods. Why is this upgrade important/wanted?
keep on tinkering! Attached image(s) ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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Dave_Darling |
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914 Idiot ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 15,161 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California ![]() ![]() |
As for the "why" the turbo tie-rod upgrade is preferred, I think a fair bit of it is "cachet". Everyone assumes that the 911 part (better yet, a 911 TURBO part!) is better than the 914 part.
The stock part uses kind of a fork-and-blade type of joint. It acts a lot like a hinge, allowing movement in one axis. There is rubber inside the joint to allow a little compliance and probably to damp a bit of vibration. The rubber can wear, making the joint sloppy. 911s also used this part up into the 80s at least. The turbo tie-rods use a ball joint. This allows movement in any direction, not just in one axis. There is no rubber inside the joint, meaning no compliance and no damping. Ball joints don't tend to wear that much when they are sealed, particularly if there isn't much load on them most of the time. The difference in feel between a new standard tie-rod and a new turbo tie-rod is frankly not that much. There's far more difference between a worn-out standard tie-rod and a new standard one. A friend of mine replaced the worn-out parts on his GF's 911SC with turbo ones, and was very impressed with the change. So he did the same swap to his SC, which had relatively new stock parts. No detectable improvement. --DD |
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