2270 Build thread, Looking forward to making all of the mistakes! Options

[vjb206]

Hey folks! I've got...

• Case halves from an old 1.7 (cleaned as best I could)
• 2270 crank + P&C kit
• #163/86b Web Cam
• 2.0 heads with 44X36 valves, where I'll be installing dual springs and 38mm exhaust valves
• Upgraded oil pump and other goodies

So my first question for the community has to do with ensuring the rotating mass is spinning freely/correctly…

I started by measuring all of the the main journals on the crank and I got a range from 2.358” - 2.360” (I used a digital caliper and I'm pretty sure I did this correctly).

Then I “dry-fit” Silverline STD/STD main bearings into the case (sans crank), torqued everything down, and got 0.003” in radial play (I used a cylinder bore dial gauge for the first time, and I think I did it correctly).

The spec-sheet says radial play should be between 0.06” - 0.10” (0.03” - 0.09” for #2); and I have 0.003." I'm a MINIMUM of 0.057" off, is that normal? What's my next step?

1. Stop pretending I know what I'm doing and take it to a machinist for test-fitting and honing (I'd like to keep cost down so this is my less preferred option)
2. DIY: hone 0.06" off all bearings (what's the right honing tool / approach here?)
3. Order different bearings (if so, which?)

[technicalninja]

@Superhawk996

I'm guessing you're like me and by the time the PG is being used we already know what our clearances will be...

Both you and I will always be able to overcome roadblocks in the technical world as we have the "gotta rip it apart" mental illness!
I've had it forever.
I'll have active projects in process when I die.
I'd bet you are similar.

And here's yet another shortcoming in the horizontally opposed engine design...

All my 4/6/8 cylinder builds that are not opposed are capable at PGing all bearings main and rod together with a single crankshaft install.

No blocking or limiting rotation needed on anything...

This is one of the reasons I advised the OP "stop and learn" as enough "T4s do it this way/everyone else does not" exist to be critical. The T4 is not really harder than others to rebuild, just has some "non-standard" strangeness to understand.

Today, with all the different oil pump diameters, I'll check my cases for proper oil pump bore/clearance as well as main and cam bores.
I've NEVER done that on ANYTHING else in my life!

If I have to have cases line bored, I'll request a specific oil pump bore diameter based on the oil pump I purchase. This is weird in my book...

Edit: WOW! that crank is dirty for taking measurements. I hope your cleaning off each individual journal before...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Jack Standz]

@Superhawk996

I'm guessing you're like me and by the time the PG is being used we already know what our clearances will be...

Both you and I will always be able to overcome roadblocks in the technical world as we have the "gotta rip it apart" mental illness!
I've had it forever.
I'll have active projects in process when I die.
I'd bet you are similar.

And here's yet another shortcoming in the horizontally opposed engine design...

All my 4/6/8 cylinder builds that are not opposed are capable at PGing all bearings main and rod together with a single crankshaft install.

No blocking or limiting rotation needed on anything...

This is one of the reasons I advised the OP "stop and learn" as enough "T4s do it this way/everyone else does not" exist to be critical. The T4 is not really harder than others to rebuild, just has some "non-standard" strangeness to understand.

Today, with all the different oil pump diameters, I'll check my cases for proper oil pump bore/clearance as well as main and cam bores.
I've NEVER done that on ANYTHING else in my life!

If I have to have cases line bored, I'll request a specific oil pump bore diameter based on the oil pump I purchase. This is weird in my book...

Edit: WOW! that crank is dirty for taking measurements. I hope your cleaning off each individual journal before...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Yes, Type IV oil pumps are an area to spend some time on during any build project. The oil galley hole on a type 1 versus a type IV pump are shown in the photo, so you might want to address that too. Leaking around the oil pump housing to case seal can cause lower oil pressure and cooling issues (oil not going through the cooler). CB Performance sells/sold(?) an o-ringed pump. And going bigger on the gears may just cause the oil to bypass the cooler resulting in a hot-running motor. This can be addressed with adjustments to the relief spring, but maybe not over size the pump to begin with is a better plan. Might want to check out Tangerine Racing for a new relief valve fix.

But, there are other options: http://tp-technologie.com/products_dry_sump_oil_pump.htm