OT. Honda V6 PSA Options

[technicalninja]

This is not Porsche based...

I have a unique view into the appliance car world (it's what I work on) and I've seen a prequel to a 5k valve job that can be avoided with the knowledge that I have and am willing to share.

If you have a Honda that is powered by a V6 this is applicable to you.

Timing belts live a long time on these vehicles and only need to be changed every 120k.

Honda says 105 but that is early in my book.

What is disquieting is something I've seen 10+ times in the last year.

The hydraulic tensioner ram loses it's "charge" and allows the belt to run stupid loose.

This manifests as a light tapping/rattle, especially noticeable on start up.

It'll rattle pretty good until the vehicle warms up and then go silent. Many owners discount this.

It's the freaking grim reaper banging on your door!

You need a timing belt job YESTERDAY!

The current one I'm doing had 190K on it and the belt has not been changed...

I don't use fear to sell jobs, that's dirty in my book!

I told this customer that if I owned the van I would deadline it for engine start.

They agreed to the job, and I PUSHED a perfectly running van onto my lift.

I was serious! NO STARTING!

Bad ram, saved the engine, target down!

If it breaks it takes ALL of the valves with it.

Turns a $1200 timing belt job into a $5k+ t-belt and replace all the valves job.

For most owners it means donating the Honda as no one will pay shit for it and $500 car payments for the next 6 years...

This noise is amplified through the rear head, and many will diagnose something wrong in the rocker arms in it.
They will be wrong!

The best t-belt kit is Aisin TKH-002. Amazon is the best source ($200). All Japanese, most OEM Honda and the ram/water pump is Toyota (Aisin IS Toyota).
Never use anything from another country here.

Now, my question to forum members...

Should I post this in the sand box? Many don't look there for car related stuff.
Should I not post non-Porsche crap at all?

The way I look at this post is "if I save ONE forum member an engine it was worth it"

What say you?

Should I "back slowly away from the keyboard and drop that mouse"?

[technicalninja]

I PROMISE not to flood the forum with non-Porsche stuff.

When I post something like the ram problem on Hondas it will be in a PSA form and that will be noted in the title.

I will describe the issue and my fixes for it.

If this is ever thought of as trash, something that doesn't belong please post your complaint in the public forum.

If other's agree I'll stop!

Now
@SuperHawk996
Where do you come up with all the graphs and incredibly detailed charts and so forth?
You ARE the Encyclopedia of arcane automotive knowledge!

I see Toyota and Aisin as being siblings; they were brought up together!
I see both AISIN and TOYOTA cast into the aluminum parts.
When I purchase an AISIN aftermarket part it is obvious that the TOYOTA insignia have been ground off by hand...

All the companies are "in bed" with each other, the only exclusions are "gaijin" or foriegners.
The most impressive ones are NGK/NTK and Denso. NGK has taken over the ignition and sensor world. Pretty much everyone uses NGK stuff now.

Denso has a greater footprint...
More than 75% of the HVAC parts in ALL brands have gone Denso.
You can buy afermarket Denso parts for everything but Stellantis (Chrysler) vehicles.
Somehow, Stellantis got them locked up! Stellantis parts are 50% overpriced IMO.

Almost all the Japanese are Denso.
Add modern GM and Stellatis to the list as well.
I see Denso on most German stuff.

I just love the shit out of Denso parts! No comebacks!

A couple of years ago I replaced the compressor on my wife's 06 Oddy touring. $1K from Honda, $225 from Amazon. Same part!

@Rufus
IMO the Honda K series is the best 4 cylinder ever built by ANYONE!
I have access to one of the best Ks out there. 2005 TSX K24A2.
That engine, with un-restricted exhaust/intake, and a performance tune can exceed 240hp at the wheels in bone stock form.
Add engine parts and lots more is available.
Add a turbo and it's hard to make less than 400...
If you use a later model Z7 stuff with the single square exhaust port the turbo is much easier to install.
It's the engine I probably should use in the 916 clone I have; just seem wrong to me...

@Jack Standz
You have a Porsche that I've lusted for from the first time I saw one...
I'm more of a front engine/rear drive guy. Datsun Zcars, Miatas, BMW M3. I have them all.
I SHOULD have bought a 968 ten years ago when they were affordable.
I want a convertible!

The single worst T-belt failure I've see was on a 944S4. Holes in the block with rods sticking out, cam shaft towers broken off the head, both cams snapped in two, valve chunks EVERYWHERE.
Total and complete destruction. No core valve at all!!
Got an engine from a dismantler.

The Honda just bends the valves a little tiny bit. Tiny dents in the piston tops that are not service effecting. You can save a bent valve Honda, not so sure about saving a 968...

I use URO as well. I've got URO 5 lug flanges on the 914 and a bunch of URO stuff on the M3.
I see them as 2nd rate. Sometimes they are the only "Show in Town" and you have to use.
If I had URO parts in a critical location (like the ram on a 968!) I'd half the service life!
Early T-belt changes on that puppy from that point on...

When I find a convertible with a popped motor (only way I can afford one) I already know what I'll put in it.
LS variant, 4" or larger bore, 3" stroke, titanium rods, late truck heads, Jesel valve train, ITBs.
Try to limit the torque below 350 to re-use drivetrain but have an 8500-rpm motor...
Might be CHEAPER than a dismantler 968 engine used!

Thanks for the replies guys!