OT. Honda V6 PSA Options

[technicalninja]

This is not Porsche based...

I have a unique view into the appliance car world (it's what I work on) and I've seen a prequel to a 5k valve job that can be avoided with the knowledge that I have and am willing to share.

If you have a Honda that is powered by a V6 this is applicable to you.

Timing belts live a long time on these vehicles and only need to be changed every 120k.

Honda says 105 but that is early in my book.

What is disquieting is something I've seen 10+ times in the last year.

The hydraulic tensioner ram loses it's "charge" and allows the belt to run stupid loose.

This manifests as a light tapping/rattle, especially noticeable on start up.

It'll rattle pretty good until the vehicle warms up and then go silent. Many owners discount this.

It's the freaking grim reaper banging on your door!

You need a timing belt job YESTERDAY!

The current one I'm doing had 190K on it and the belt has not been changed...

I don't use fear to sell jobs, that's dirty in my book!

I told this customer that if I owned the van I would deadline it for engine start.

They agreed to the job, and I PUSHED a perfectly running van onto my lift.

I was serious! NO STARTING!

Bad ram, saved the engine, target down!

If it breaks it takes ALL of the valves with it.

Turns a $1200 timing belt job into a $5k+ t-belt and replace all the valves job.

For most owners it means donating the Honda as no one will pay shit for it and $500 car payments for the next 6 years...

This noise is amplified through the rear head, and many will diagnose something wrong in the rocker arms in it.
They will be wrong!

The best t-belt kit is Aisin TKH-002. Amazon is the best source ($200). All Japanese, most OEM Honda and the ram/water pump is Toyota (Aisin IS Toyota).
Never use anything from another country here.

Now, my question to forum members...

Should I post this in the sand box? Many don't look there for car related stuff.
Should I not post non-Porsche crap at all?

The way I look at this post is "if I save ONE forum member an engine it was worth it"

What say you?

Should I "back slowly away from the keyboard and drop that mouse"?

[technicalninja]

The Honda ATF replacement is the VERY easiest one to do as well as the least expensive by FAR!!!

Most take 3.5 qts of Honda DW.
The drain plug is a square that your 3/8" ratchet will fit in!
Has a big assed magnet on it. Easy to get to!
The fill plug is on the top of the transmission behind the air snorkel 17mm and has "ATF" recessed in the top of it. I use a 1/2" breaker bar and a long extension. The top plug gets TIGHT!
The aluminum crush rings can be re-used 5 times if you're careful. Lightly seat the top plug. It will be tighter than hell down the road anyway.

A Christmas tree funnel is the proper tool to re-fill. Works great!
I cut the tube down to fit inside the engine compartment. It slides right in the fill hole.

The ONLY place to get the ATF or the PS fluid is the dealer!
Same price or less than aftermarket!
The rest of the fluids don't matter where you get them.
I charge .3 hours of labor and charge for 3.5 qts at 11 per.
Tax title and license $80!

I always catch and measure what I drain (to show customer and verify fill level).

I run 10K synthetic oil changes (Honda filters too-they're cheap!) and every third one I do ATF as well.

It's actually easier than an oil change!
Most cars don't even need the bottom plastic removed. Not Oddys for sure!

Heads up guys! Oddys are one of the EASIER cars to work on.
Wait till you try to change plugs on a Toyota Sienna minivan!
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When cheap ass aftermarket coil boots stick to the plug and tear off was the worst!
I wanted to die...
Got them bitches out but I warn Sienna owners BEFORE the job that pricing is FLUID on these!