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> OT. Honda V6 PSA
technicalninja
post Jan 14 2024, 05:04 PM
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This is not Porsche based...

I have a unique view into the appliance car world (it's what I work on) and I've seen a prequel to a 5k valve job that can be avoided with the knowledge that I have and am willing to share.

If you have a Honda that is powered by a V6 this is applicable to you.

Timing belts live a long time on these vehicles and only need to be changed every 120k.

Honda says 105 but that is early in my book.

What is disquieting is something I've seen 10+ times in the last year.

The hydraulic tensioner ram loses it's "charge" and allows the belt to run stupid loose.

This manifests as a light tapping/rattle, especially noticeable on start up.

It'll rattle pretty good until the vehicle warms up and then go silent. Many owners discount this.

It's the freaking grim reaper banging on your door!

You need a timing belt job YESTERDAY!

The current one I'm doing had 190K on it and the belt has not been changed...

I don't use fear to sell jobs, that's dirty in my book!

I told this customer that if I owned the van I would deadline it for engine start.

They agreed to the job, and I PUSHED a perfectly running van onto my lift.

I was serious! NO STARTING!

Bad ram, saved the engine, target down!

If it breaks it takes ALL of the valves with it.

Turns a $1200 timing belt job into a $5k+ t-belt and replace all the valves job.

For most owners it means donating the Honda as no one will pay shit for it and $500 car payments for the next 6 years...

This noise is amplified through the rear head, and many will diagnose something wrong in the rocker arms in it.
They will be wrong!

The best t-belt kit is Aisin TKH-002. Amazon is the best source ($200). All Japanese, most OEM Honda and the ram/water pump is Toyota (Aisin IS Toyota).
Never use anything from another country here.

Now, my question to forum members...

Should I post this in the sand box? Many don't look there for car related stuff.
Should I not post non-Porsche crap at all?

The way I look at this post is "if I save ONE forum member an engine it was worth it"

What say you?

Should I "back slowly away from the keyboard and drop that mouse"?
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Jack Standz
post Jan 17 2024, 10:55 AM
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QUOTE(technicalninja @ Jan 16 2024, 02:52 AM) *


@Jack Standz
You have a Porsche that I've lusted for from the first time I saw one...
I'm more of a front engine/rear drive guy. Datsun Zcars, Miatas, BMW M3. I have them all.
I SHOULD have bought a 968 ten years ago when they were affordable.
I want a convertible!

The single worst T-belt failure I've see was on a 944S4. Holes in the block with rods sticking out, cam shaft towers broken off the head, both cams snapped in two, valve chunks EVERYWHERE.
Total and complete destruction. No core valve at all!!
Got an engine from a dismantler.

The Honda just bends the valves a little tiny bit. Tiny dents in the piston tops that are not service effecting. You can save a bent valve Honda, not so sure about saving a 968...

I use URO as well. I've got URO 5 lug flanges on the 914 and a bunch of URO stuff on the M3.
I see them as 2nd rate. Sometimes they are the only "Show in Town" and you have to use.
If I had URO parts in a critical location (like the ram on a 968!) I'd half the service life!
Early T-belt changes on that puppy from that point on...

When I find a convertible with a popped motor (only way I can afford one) I already know what I'll put in it.
LS variant, 4" or larger bore, 3" stroke, titanium rods, late truck heads, Jesel valve train, ITBs.
Try to limit the torque below 350 to re-use drivetrain but have an 8500-rpm motor...
Might be CHEAPER than a dismantler 968 engine used!

Thanks for the replies guys!


Best wishes for the search for a 968. They only imported about 2,008 Cabriolets to North America (US, Canada and Mexico), so it won't be easy to find one, just be patient. And, it may be sacrilegious to some, but we'd opt for an LS swap too if the motor goes boom and can't be fixed.

Yes avoid having the pistons meet up with the valves. Never saw the damage you described in that 944 S2, but don't want to either. We will use the Uro hydraulic belt tensioner as they are the only current source. The 944s used a spring loaded and manually tensioned arrangement, not sure if the S2s did too, but they did also have a 3 liter 4 cylinder like the 968s, just with lower HP.


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