Considering a run of shifter knobs, I've not done one in years |
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Considering a run of shifter knobs, I've not done one in years |
VaccaRabite |
Jan 29 2024, 01:14 PM
Post
#1
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En Garde! Group: Admin Posts: 13,465 Joined: 15-December 03 From: Dallastown, PA Member No.: 1,435 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Hey all, I'm considering a run of 917 style shifter knobs, which I've not done in about 5 years.
These would be different from the ones I have made in the past. I bought a bit of European birch plywood, and I plan to make them from that. The shipping cost more the then lumber, and the lumber wasn't cheap. In the past I have always used either maple and mahogany or maple and dark walnut for these knobs. And then finished them with several oats of oil and wax. This time around they would be very (hopefully very very) similar to the knobs made by the Porsche race teams for their 917 cars. Right wood. Right finish. Wrong car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) The knobs were known as "balsa" shift knobs, but were actually made from birch ply and glued onto the shifter rod. My plan is to turn and smooth them, and fit them with the delrin inserts I make (instead of glueing the knob to your shift rod). But otherwise they will be very much like the originals - no finish save the oils from your hands. The wood is a furniture grade euro ply - its not the rough crap from the local home depot. I've not got the wood yet, and I need to order more delrin rod for the inserts. But before I do that, is there even any interest in this, or am I the only one that thinks its a cool idea? As far as I know, no-one else is doing these this way, everyone is making them similar to how I was doing it, though I've yet to see someone making the inserts I developed for use with the stock crush rings. These would definitely be a little more racey and raw. I don't know, maybe I'm the only one that thinks it would be cool. I should also point out, these could also be finished in oil and wax for a bit of refinement and would likely look awesome. But I kinda want to make them as close to the actual deal as I can this time, and see how it goes. Let me know what you think. And I'll make up a test knob when the wood gets to me. Zach |
Jamie |
Jan 30 2024, 10:17 AM
Post
#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,034 Joined: 13-October 04 From: Georgetown,KY Member No.: 2,939 Region Association: South East States |
Hey all, I'm considering a run of 917 style shifter knobs, which I've not done in about 5 years. These would be different from the ones I have made in the past. I bought a bit of European birch plywood, and I plan to make them from that. The shipping cost more the then lumber, and the lumber wasn't cheap. In the past I have always used either maple and mahogany or maple and dark walnut for these knobs. And then finished them with several oats of oil and wax. This time around they would be very (hopefully very very) similar to the knobs made by the Porsche race teams for their 917 cars. Right wood. Right finish. Wrong car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) The knobs were known as "balsa" shift knobs, but were actually made from birch ply and glued onto the shifter rod. My plan is to turn and smooth them, and fit them with the delrin inserts I make (instead of glueing the knob to your shift rod). But otherwise they will be very much like the originals - no finish save the oils from your hands. The wood is a furniture grade euro ply - its not the rough crap from the local home depot. I've not got the wood yet, and I need to order more delrin rod for the inserts. But before I do that, is there even any interest in this, or am I the only one that thinks its a cool idea? As far as I know, no-one else is doing these this way, everyone is making them similar to how I was doing it, though I've yet to see someone making the inserts I developed for use with the stock crush rings. These would definitely be a little more racey and raw. I don't know, maybe I'm the only one that thinks it would be cool. I should also point out, these could also be finished in oil and wax for a bit of refinement and would likely look awesome. But I kinda want to make them as close to the actual deal as I can this time, and see how it goes. Let me know what you think. And I'll make up a test knob when the wood gets to me. Zach As a woodworker/woodturner I have experience with Dymondwood, short in supply since the plant burned several years ago. This laminated resin infused Baltic Birch material makes excellent shift knobs, and a variety of colors can allow laminations color matched to car color schemes. Another similar material named DymaLux may now be more readily available. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) |
VaccaRabite |
Jan 30 2024, 01:06 PM
Post
#3
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En Garde! Group: Admin Posts: 13,465 Joined: 15-December 03 From: Dallastown, PA Member No.: 1,435 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
As a woodworker/woodturner I have experience with Dymondwood, short in supply since the plant burned several years ago. This laminated resin infused Baltic Birch material makes excellent shift knobs, and a variety of colors can allow laminations color matched to car color schemes. Another similar material named DymaLux may now be more readily available. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) I tried this stuff about 10 years ago. I turns beautifully and polishes up amazing. But it is NOT UV stable. Back in the day my WRX was the test bed for a lot of knobs I made, and all of the resin impregnated plywood I tried cracked badly within a week to a month. I tried several different times with different craft plys from different plants. I finally got one I thought had been a success but then it started cracking just after 1 month. I still have a bunch of the stuff in my shop, and will occasionally make things like pens and ornaments from it. Its great stuff so long as you don't keep it in the sun. At the time I actually talked to the Dymondwood people about it and they confirmed that their product was not intended where it would be in a warm and UV heavy environment. I recall bow makers were also having issues with it when people would leave their bows in the car between shooting sessions. Then they would draw it one day and the bow would come apart dramatically. THAT SAID - most people keep classics in the garage, and my WRX was an outside car. It might work fine. But I'm not going to try it again. At the time I also tried to find a marine version of the same, but no one was making it. That may have changed over the past decade. This is the same reason I stopped doing the CA finish I was using for a bit. I sent some to Europe and got word that the finish was delaminating from the wood given the much colder climate. The wood contracted and the CA finish didn't, leaving voids between wood and finish, ruining the knob. I made new ones at no charge for everyone that had an issue and got my lunch eaten. Since then, I've only offered the oil and wax finish. Takes longer to apply, but looks nicer in the end IMO. |
Jamie |
Jan 30 2024, 06:36 PM
Post
#4
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,034 Joined: 13-October 04 From: Georgetown,KY Member No.: 2,939 Region Association: South East States |
As a woodworker/woodturner I have experience with Dymondwood, short in supply since the plant burned several years ago. This laminated resin infused Baltic Birch material makes excellent shift knobs, and a variety of colors can allow laminations color matched to car color schemes. Another similar material named DymaLux may now be more readily available. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) I tried this stuff about 10 years ago. I turns beautifully and polishes up amazing. But it is NOT UV stable. Back in the day my WRX was the test bed for a lot of knobs I made, and all of the resin impregnated plywood I tried cracked badly within a week to a month. I tried several different times with different craft plys from different plants. I finally got one I thought had been a success but then it started cracking just after 1 month. I still have a bunch of the stuff in my shop, and will occasionally make things like pens and ornaments from it. Its great stuff so long as you don't keep it in the sun. At the time I actually talked to the Dymondwood people about it and they confirmed that their product was not intended where it would be in a warm and UV heavy environment. I recall bow makers were also having issues with it when people would leave their bows in the car between shooting sessions. Then they would draw it one day and the bow would come apart dramatically. THAT SAID - most people keep classics in the garage, and my WRX was an outside car. It might work fine. But I'm not going to try it again. At the time I also tried to find a marine version of the same, but no one was making it. That may have changed over the past decade. This is the same reason I stopped doing the CA finish I was using for a bit. I sent some to Europe and got word that the finish was delaminating from the wood given the much colder climate. The wood contracted and the CA finish didn't, leaving voids between wood and finish, ruining the knob. I made new ones at no charge for everyone that had an issue and got my lunch eaten. Since then, I've only offered the oil and wax finish. Takes longer to apply, but looks nicer in the end IMO. My go-to finish for such applications is MinWax Wiping Poly, fast and easy to apply and very durable. Use it on a lot of my turnings. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) |
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