dash flocking progress, fixing the dash Options

[drdriddle]

started the process of fixing the dash cracks. Using bondo with fiberglass, then skim coat of regular bondo. will be flocking this weekend. There is a corresponding portion of the metal dash component that will be flockled as well.

[drdriddle]

So the big questions are the time and money. The two small cans of bondo, one with glass and one without was about $40 bucks at harbor freight. The flocking kit was between $60-70 but I got that last year and have been sitting on it waiting to get to the point of doing it, so not firm on that cost. Then you need some small ancillary things like a dremel with a pointed stone attachment, a couple of plastic bondo applicators, a sander,(you can hand sand the whole thing if you don’t have a small orbital) and I used 120 grit as it doesn’t need to be super smooth. I had all those things but again HF has those cheap…say another $20 for the small stuff. Less than $150 for all the supplies.

Time total was about 5-7 hours…and the drying time between the 2 projects. The dremel is used to widen and deepen all the cracks, then the glass bondo is used on the cracks. Wait for it to set overnight, sand and then light coat of the regular bondo, set overnight and then sand smooth. That was for the dash pad. The metal portion of the dash was easy, strip off the old cracked vinyl and adhesive in that area a quick sand and seal it with primer. The adhesive for the flocking is brushed on quickly…it has a 10-15 working time, then flock away until it’s covered. The flocking will bed down and I stood over it, flocking little sections that looked wet until it was evenly coated. Wait 15 hours until dry. Did the whole project over 4 days

Neighbor has already asked me to do his 78 merc 300d. I would definitely do it again

Now for how strong is it and the wear. You can rub it like cloth and it feels really sturdy. There is no give to it. Hard to describe, but it’s like if I took some alcantara cloth and glued it down to a board? It doesn’t leave a mark or streak like when you run your hands over suede. It is on the dash and I don’t think much rubbing will occur. I’m still contemplating doing the knee board that runs along the bottom of the dash. I think it would look like a nice tie in to the top. It’s the easiest piece to remove and swap out/recover/do something different if it doesn’t hold up.

The metal dash was a breeze. As the whole thing is flat and in one plane. The rubber dash is harder as the adhesive is self leveling but it’s in 2 different planes. If you put the adhesive on too thick on the vertical plane it wants to run…but it’s a thicker glue/paint so it doesn’t run very fast. I lost a bit of working time, running back over those area with a brush until it set enough not to run. But it only took 2-3 minutes to flock the whole thing. So far it’s been one of the most rewarding projects on the car, and if it holds up, a bit of a money saving one as well.

I spent three hours doing the drivers side targa main seal down the A pillar and was so pissy by the end that I haven’t done the passengers side yet. This was a much more fun project. I think I got all the questions but if there’s anything I missed, please let me know. And thank you for saying it looks good…it’s nice thinking it’s not just me being overly confident in its outcome.