started the process of fixing the dash cracks. Using bondo with fiberglass, then skim coat of regular bondo. will be flocking this weekend. There is a corresponding portion of the metal dash component that will be flockled as well.

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Its never going to be stock again, so why don't you do something out of the box.

So flocking I have seen done on the dash box but what is it on the dash pad exactly?

It’s a flocking dash, what do you think ?

Interesting, I wonder if this is sort of what's also done when a dash gets covered and stitched? I remember having a stitched dash and really liking it.

Interesting. I just started playing around with glueing up cracks with some polyurethane foam rubber that I bought for something else. I will have to keep watching your posts. Please show what doesn’t work along with what does. Nothing like failure to produce the experience you need for success. Ask me how I reached that conclusion.

Are you asking why im flocking the dash pad? If so, I guess because a new one is around 700 bucks and very hard to find. I mean thats the backup plan if this looks bad or fails completely. There were like seven huge cracks in this thing and numerous small cracks. Ive watched a bunch of videos on repairing the dash this way and you can just rattle can it black but all the texture is lost. this hopefully wiill look more like an alcantara dash when done. the dash is completely smooth which you can't tell from the pics. more pics to come

we have plenty of our factory look dashes on the shelf and they are greatClick to view attachment

They are certainly an option if this doesn't work out the way i hope.
Thank you. So far I'm only in this about $60, including all the flocking supplies, and its a fun project. If it doesn't work then no harm, no foul, nothing lost or ruined. Ill just save up and buy one

You could do a hydro dip if the doesn’t work

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Following along for my VW dash pad. Let us know how it progresses.

Did the metal part of the dash last night. This is the part where you have stretched vinyl as the original that cracks in the sun and is impossible to replace unless you rip the dash outClick to view attachment

Also did a glovebox delete. Couldn’t get it to look good with the old door. The dash will end up being orange like the car. Click to view attachment

Are you using a flocking gun and slow dry BK enamel Paint? I used to flock production parts and have a bit of experience in this. Back in the 50s guys did their tops on their cars. (My dad told me that.) I used to make King Tut reproductions and used it for the bottoms of the pieces in the early 80s You need the slow dry paint and the gun to puff it up or it gets clumpy

Have fun

Bob B

Yes it’s a flocking kit. It’s a brush on self leveling black paint. The flocking is in bags that get transferred to a cardboard flocking tube (two tubes that over lap with holes in one end) that you fill halfway. You brush on the paint, then you have 10-15 minutes to flock the area. Just puff the tubes (really easy motion that any guy is familiar with) and cover the entire area. As the flocking beds down into the paint, you continue to go over the are until liberally covered. Can’t really over cover because what doesn’t get bonded to the paint you lightly blow off after it’s cured. States you need to leave it alone for 15 hours. I did it last night, checked on it after work today, and it’s completly cured and bonded. Running your hand over it feels like running your hand over alcantera. Plus there are a bunch of different colors available. I did black. I did the underside of the binnical where the gauges sit last night to make sure the paint would bond properly to the dash material. And it came out fantastic. I’m going to do the rest of the dash pad this weekend. I’ll post pics when it’s done. If I remember correctly the kit was about $60. I got a second tube to have run loaded and ready in case the first one wasn’t enough. I used about a tube and a half on that amount of dash.

Well here is the dash pad… I think it looks awesome.

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That looks really good! Are you going round do the ashtray too?

Ahhh, actually I did an ashtray delete as well. However since I couldn’t change the shape of the dash pad to cover the area, I found that the outer case of an old CB radio slides into the hole perfectly. This will provide a nice little area for a pair of sunglasses or something similar.

It came out looking really great. Nice job on this @drdriddle

Best Bob B

Looks good!

Really nice job! I'll be curious to see how it holds up for you.

How abrasion resistant do you feel it will be when you’re done? Will items that rub against it cause marks? Does it have some give?

Looks really good up to this point.

I like it.

Not bad at all.
How much time/$'s have you got into it. IE would your do it again?

Dash flocking????



Works far, far better than I expected!

Learn new shit here quite often!

So the big questions are the time and money. The two small cans of bondo, one with glass and one without was about $40 bucks at harbor freight. The flocking kit was between $60-70 but I got that last year and have been sitting on it waiting to get to the point of doing it, so not firm on that cost. Then you need some small ancillary things like a dremel with a pointed stone attachment, a couple of plastic bondo applicators, a sander,(you can hand sand the whole thing if you don’t have a small orbital) and I used 120 grit as it doesn’t need to be super smooth. I had all those things but again HF has those cheap…say another $20 for the small stuff. Less than $150 for all the supplies.

Time total was about 5-7 hours…and the drying time between the 2 projects. The dremel is used to widen and deepen all the cracks, then the glass bondo is used on the cracks. Wait for it to set overnight, sand and then light coat of the regular bondo, set overnight and then sand smooth. That was for the dash pad. The metal portion of the dash was easy, strip off the old cracked vinyl and adhesive in that area a quick sand and seal it with primer. The adhesive for the flocking is brushed on quickly…it has a 10-15 working time, then flock away until it’s covered. The flocking will bed down and I stood over it, flocking little sections that looked wet until it was evenly coated. Wait 15 hours until dry. Did the whole project over 4 days

Neighbor has already asked me to do his 78 merc 300d. I would definitely do it again

Now for how strong is it and the wear. You can rub it like cloth and it feels really sturdy. There is no give to it. Hard to describe, but it’s like if I took some alcantara cloth and glued it down to a board? It doesn’t leave a mark or streak like when you run your hands over suede. It is on the dash and I don’t think much rubbing will occur. I’m still contemplating doing the knee board that runs along the bottom of the dash. I think it would look like a nice tie in to the top. It’s the easiest piece to remove and swap out/recover/do something different if it doesn’t hold up.

The metal dash was a breeze. As the whole thing is flat and in one plane. The rubber dash is harder as the adhesive is self leveling but it’s in 2 different planes. If you put the adhesive on too thick on the vertical plane it wants to run…but it’s a thicker glue/paint so it doesn’t run very fast. I lost a bit of working time, running back over those area with a brush until it set enough not to run. But it only took 2-3 minutes to flock the whole thing. So far it’s been one of the most rewarding projects on the car, and if it holds up, a bit of a money saving one as well.

I spent three hours doing the drivers side targa main seal down the A pillar and was so pissy by the end that I haven’t done the passengers side yet. This was a much more fun project. I think I got all the questions but if there’s anything I missed, please let me know. And thank you for saying it looks good…it’s nice thinking it’s not just me being overly confident in its outcome.

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Progress do far

Just plain E X C E L L E N T

** photo of the day **

O

Looks great! Thx for posting and good to know the kit works. Could you post some details on the kit you used?

- Tony

Looks "hi-end" custom for chump change!

Allow re-use of a horrible dash.

Only question I have is how well will it wear?

Will it change rapidly getting fried by the Texas sun?

Wouldn't matter much for an enthusiast car that was garaged!

If it holds up to the death rays down here, I'll use that process in multiple builds.

Think a 914 dash is expensive? Try an early Z dash...

I'd KILL to be able to buy a repo 240Z dash for 650.

So expensive that there are multiple sources for fiberglass reproductions that would look SO MUCH better flocked!

I do see a possible problem that has nothing to do with the flocking...
I expect the bondo and the remaining dash material to expand/contract at different rates and the cracks may "print through" with age.
Time will tell.

Maybe a "more similar" material to repair the cracks could be found?

Anyone know the chemical composition of the original dash?

I'm interested in the kit you used as well.


Actually, looks better IMO than a new repo dash...

I agree it looks great. My personal concern would be dust collection and or removal of dust, as I nearly always drive w my roof off. S Texas does get dusty.

I suppose you could gently blow it off with compressed air.

Any thoughts about keeping it clean?

The kit I used was from https://www.flockit.com/order/products/sued...i-flock-kit-745

I have been working around the garage kicking up dust and crap, and have used both compressed air and a little handheld shark vacuum. Both worked and didn’t cause any damage. I always use one of those gold foiled sunshades on my other cars and I think that will help immensely at least while sitting in the sun. Think I’m going to do the inside of the targa top. If anything heats up and causes issues…that’ll be the place.

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Got the fog lights mounted and wires run today

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The underdash pad is ready for flocking…probably do that tomorrow