Oil Leaks, I am tired of them Options

[sdoolin]

Rebuilt my 2.0 back in 2016. Full "Raby Spec" 2056. Runs very well. It is out of the car right now as I am dealing with a rusty battery tray (separate thread on that). It appears that I have leaks at most/all of the pushrod tube seals, the valve cover seals, and the rear main seal. This is not a surprise to me, I clean the bottom of the engine regularly, and knew this day was coming

Pretty sure I used the Victor Reinz gasket set that came with my engine "kit" from the Type IV Store. I used the cork valve cover seals from the Victor Reinz set. I did not use any RTV anywhere. Hate the stuff. I know I used a rear main seal from GoWesty as someone back then had suggested it is a better part then what is included with the Victor Reinz set.

I installed new pushrod tubes and used the O-Rings from the Victor Reinz set.

Does anyone really have an oil tight VW Type IV engine? If yes, how does none do that?

[technicalninja]

Post a pic of your leak point please.

Really strange to have a static leak that sounds like it's HIGHER than the oil level should be in the sump.

Just looked at my 73 2.0l case...

I found a possible source of the leak!

The lower bolt for the middle camshaft bearing ALSO holds the pick-up and the clearance for this MIGHT be a leak path.

Doesn't look like a good way to seal it internally. Only solution is to add some type of sealing washer under the fastener...

This will be a 13mm headed bolt lower than and between the two pair of push rod tubes, the sump has a half circle depression depression in it to allow access to this fastener.

All of the other studs and bolts have two flat faces on the case completely surrounding the fasteners so these should be much less prone to leak.

I wouldn't take it apart until I really zeroed in on the leak. The lower cam shaft bearing bore bolts MIGHT be under the oil level...

You might be able to stop this leak with an aluminum crush washer
Another option is AC sealing rings-bunch of sizes, and they are crush rings with an O-ring built into the ID (Most!) or in the case of Late model Ford the OD.

I'd go crush ring, flat washer, blue Loctite on threads or class 4 nut if this spot is running a stud in your car.

Might be easy to fix.

"Diag before repair."

Ninja's second most important rule...

First is "There are always exceptions to the rules, rules are for fools, wise men use good judgement first" . (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ninja.gif)