Oil Leaks, I am tired of them Options

[sdoolin]

Rebuilt my 2.0 back in 2016. Full "Raby Spec" 2056. Runs very well. It is out of the car right now as I am dealing with a rusty battery tray (separate thread on that). It appears that I have leaks at most/all of the pushrod tube seals, the valve cover seals, and the rear main seal. This is not a surprise to me, I clean the bottom of the engine regularly, and knew this day was coming

Pretty sure I used the Victor Reinz gasket set that came with my engine "kit" from the Type IV Store. I used the cork valve cover seals from the Victor Reinz set. I did not use any RTV anywhere. Hate the stuff. I know I used a rear main seal from GoWesty as someone back then had suggested it is a better part then what is included with the Victor Reinz set.

I installed new pushrod tubes and used the O-Rings from the Victor Reinz set.

Does anyone really have an oil tight VW Type IV engine? If yes, how does none do that?

[technicalninja]

You're running carbs...

My 75 came with a brand-new progressive Weber 2 bbl kit in the center.

No way I'm going to run that IN THE CAR!

I'm keeping it anyways because it is the ultimate "run engine before installation"
solution out there!

I would have run that after I installed tranny and heat exchangers to verify engine before installation.

The crappy little progressive needs little tuning to make it "run".

I will initially be running dual IDFs on the car.

I'll break in the cam, run the engine till warm, set dist timing, get it to the point I'm happy on the progressive.
Allow to cool, recheck head bolt torque and valve adjustment, change oil (if fresh engine) and then install engine and the real carburetors...

You can do the same with the IDFs. They might be a bit more work than the progressive. If they were close before you took them out, they should be still close enough to run for 20 minutes...
All you need is a 12V power source for distributor and starter and a rudimentary fuel system. A gas can and a simple electric fuel pump is my solution but You can probably supply enough fuel for test bed run via a simple gravity feed from the fuel tank. Put it at least two feet higher than the carbs and create a siphon.
I don't suck on the line anymore. I'll put most of the line into the fuel tank, cap my finger tightly over the open end and pull a column of fuel in the line to start the siphon.

This is not enough flow to test under load but just "on the transmission" does NOT allow for load testing anyways.

Wouldn't take much to be able to run that out of the chassis...