2.0L rebuild |
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2.0L rebuild |
Zaffer |
Apr 20 2024, 08:04 AM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 96 Joined: 10-December 06 From: Radiant, VA Member No.: 7,343 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
I know this subject has been beaten to death, but just trying to look for the most current information on parts as I know quality changes over time.
I am no longer doing a Subaru six conversion to my 914 as I will keep the T4. I have 2, one 2.0L and one 1.8L. My car is a factory ‘75 2.0L. I will run factory FI and am not interested in Megasquirt, carbs, or any other aftermarket FI, at least for now. The 2.0L I’m using I bought from George Hussey in 2009 “in running condition”, but it’s been sitting on my engine stand since. I am going to rebuild my 2.0L and bump it up to a 2056, but have some (a lot of) questions: Can I use the factory FI for a 2270? I don’t think so, IIRC, but want to make sure. I have the 1.8L that I could make a 1911, but is it any better than a 2056? Why or why not? What P&C’s should I use? I know the main ones are AA and KB. I’m looking at the Biral AA’s at the moment. Can I use a more aggressive cam with factory FI? What valve springs should I use and is there a better setup? My initial plan is as follows: - Install new P&C’s - Balance the crankshaft, rods, and pistons - Rebuild the heads: replace/upgrade the valve springs, replace the valve guides, inspect and replace/upgrade(?) valves - Either use factory cam or upgrade cam, if possible with factory FI. - Install a larger oil pump, if still available. While I want to make some improvements with the engine, I am not going to spend 10K+ doing so. This car will be a nice weather driver and I do not plan on doing any track events or autoX’s with it. I want to make the engine nice and “reliable”, but I don’t need new heads, Nickies, etc. I am rebuilding the engine myself but using a really good local machine shop as well. I do not need to get every Nth of power from the engine, but would like to reasonably improve on it without going crazy. Any advice on what to, and not to, do is welcome and I realize I’m going to get multiple different answers. As for the car itself, it’ll remain mostly stock with Factory 4-lug Fuchs, factory brakes, etc. Thanks! |
Superhawk996 |
Apr 23 2024, 07:08 AM
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#2
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,892 Joined: 25-August 18 From: Woods of N. Idaho Member No.: 22,428 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
Don’t make like more complicated by creating T4 Frankenbuilds by mixing and matching FI.
Rebuild a 1.8 to 1911 (66 x 96) use 1.8L FI which will fit 1.8L heads. Rebuild 2.0l to 2056 (71 x 96) use 2.0L FI that fits 3 stud 2.0L heads. The factory FI is limiting because it cannot accommodate large changes in volumetric efficiency that come with increases in bore, stroke, and cam. It can handle the minor displacement change. It cannot handle much of a cam change. The 2.0L is basically a factory stroker that added 5mm stroke. The increased HP of the 2.0l doesn’t come from some sort of magic 2.0l FI, it comes from the added stroke and the 2.0l heads that had better flow and a better spark plug orientation for a better burn. I’m going to give you my opinion on HP. It doesn’t matter. (Worth what you paid). Especially in a day and age of EV’s. Even with a Subie it will still be “slow”. Your average daily driver now can do 0-60 very close to what a 930 used to be. These cars were never about HP. They were about light weight and superb handling. The ability to carry momentum in turns. The stock 914 is air cooled and has a very low polar moment of inertia as a result of centralized engine mass. By the time you’ve added the extra weight and plumbing of a subie and compromised the centralized mass with a radiator, much of what defined the original 914 is lost. After all that work to do a conversion, you still don’t have a “fast” car by modern standards. The 2021 Toyota Camry was 0-60 in about 6 seconds. Let that sink in. These are facts and physics. A good driver in a 100 Hp car can out drive an average driver in the same car with 130 HP on track or in the twisties. A professional driver in 100 hp will make a mockery of an average driver with 200 or more HP. You get the point. If you truly feel big horsepower is what you want, the T4 isn’t for you. If you just want to do smoky burnouts - put a T4 rebuild out of your mind. If you just want a more modern power plant, move forward on a conversion with zero regret. |
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