I know this subject has been beaten to death, but just trying to look for the most current information on parts as I know quality changes over time.

I am no longer doing a Subaru six conversion to my 914 as I will keep the T4. I have 2, one 2.0L and one 1.8L. My car is a factory ‘75 2.0L. I will run factory FI and am not interested in Megasquirt, carbs, or any other aftermarket FI, at least for now. The 2.0L I’m using I bought from George Hussey in 2009 “in running condition”, but it’s been sitting on my engine stand since.

I am going to rebuild my 2.0L and bump it up to a 2056, but have some (a lot of) questions:

Can I use the factory FI for a 2270? I don’t think so, IIRC, but want to make sure.

I have the 1.8L that I could make a 1911, but is it any better than a 2056? Why or why not?

What P&C’s should I use? I know the main ones are AA and KB. I’m looking at the Biral AA’s at the moment.

Can I use a more aggressive cam with factory FI?

What valve springs should I use and is there a better setup?

My initial plan is as follows:
- Install new P&C’s
- Balance the crankshaft, rods, and pistons
- Rebuild the heads: replace/upgrade the valve springs, replace the valve guides, inspect and replace/upgrade(?) valves
- Either use factory cam or upgrade cam, if possible with factory FI.
- Install a larger oil pump, if still available.

While I want to make some improvements with the engine, I am not going to spend 10K+ doing so. This car will be a nice weather driver and I do not plan on doing any track events or autoX’s with it. I want to make the engine nice and “reliable”, but I don’t need new heads, Nickies, etc. I am rebuilding the engine myself but using a really good local machine shop as well. I do not need to get every Nth of power from the engine, but would like to reasonably improve on it without going crazy.

Any advice on what to, and not to, do is welcome and I realize I’m going to get multiple different answers.

As for the car itself, it’ll remain mostly stock with Factory 4-lug Fuchs, factory brakes, etc.

Thanks!

First thing is to disassemble what you have and make decisions from there.

Heads cracked? (common on 2.0). You will need expensive repairs or new heads.

If you're planning on re-using the D-jet cams are critical. You can't go big here.

I never "make a list" until the original engine is in individual pieces and I know what is re-usable.

The Biral cylinders caught my eye as well. Porsche tried it once and even they found it difficult to adhere the aluminum to the ferrous liner.
Don't expect the Chinese to do a better job!

Unless it says "made in Germany" it's made in China. I don't use Chinese parts if I can avoid them.

Most of the OG members don't use Biral.

In fact. there is enough troubles and complaints with the aftermarket parts (everything including the bearings) that I am planning on using the original Mahle cylinder and having them bored out to 96mm which is actually more expensive that just buying new.

Re-boring the old allows you to choose your P-C clearances as well. You need a GOOD machine shop for this.

You should tear your stuff down, inspect it properly, and do a BUNCH of research before you start buying parts...

I rebuilt my 2.0 to 2056 using AA biral cylinders and pistons. Web 9550 cam and Hamm 1.8 cylinder heads, 9:1 cr. Used a 50mm Vanagon throttle body and richened up the Ljet FI. The engine runs cool with the biral cylinders and pulls strong.

Well, after doing more research, I’m reminded of why I was considering the Subie conversion in the first place. Based on everything, I’m going to go that route and sell my 2.0L, factory FI, and everything else T4 engine related. I now just need to go through all of my boxes and figure out what all I have.

No way a subie conversion is simpler than a basic T4 rebuild. Just sayin’. All depends on what you really want.

I agree. No matter how cheap you obtain the engine, you will spend $10k on parts to do the conversion.

I’ll add - a 1911 is plenty of fun especially with a cam and carbs. Cheap to build since you avoid the potential cost issues of the 2.0l heads. Even if you go 1911 and Stock FI, it is still a fun engine, just leaves a little HP on the table by not being able to use a more aggressive cam profile.

Stay 2056 or 1911 and a rebuild is very affordable. I drove a 1911, for years and years when I rebuilt my 1st 1.7L. Very reliable.

Start going down the path of big bore and strokers and costs escalate very quickly. Likewise reliability of those types of engines diminishes quickly unless the build is done to a high standard including Nickies which tank the budget aspect.

Nah, the parts really aren’t that expensive to do the conversion, about 3-5k in parts, with the biggest unknown being the donor vehicle(s).

I’m definitely not going down the path of big bore/striker engines because, yes, it does get expensive fast!

What all is in the 1911 build?

If I keep the T4, I’m planning on keeping the factory FI, which I know limits the size and cam, but that’s what I would want to do. Can the FI from the 2.0L be used on the 1911? I do have a spare 1.8L.

I guess first thing to do would be to have the heads checked and then decide: if they’re good, stick with the T4; if bad, then consider the conversion.

My problem is I want more power, but I like the idea of keeping the T4. However, I’m not spending 10K on an uber nice T4 for 120hp. What would a “basic” rebuild be, with me doing the labor side, besides machine work? Prices are all over he place so looking for experience.

Don’t make like more complicated by creating T4 Frankenbuilds by mixing and matching FI.

Rebuild a 1.8 to 1911 (66 x 96) use 1.8L FI which will fit 1.8L heads.

Rebuild 2.0l to 2056 (71 x 96) use 2.0L FI that fits 3 stud 2.0L heads.

The factory FI is limiting because it cannot accommodate large changes in volumetric efficiency that come with increases in bore, stroke, and cam. It can handle the minor displacement change. It cannot handle much of a cam change.

The 2.0L is basically a factory stroker that added 5mm stroke. The increased HP of the 2.0l doesn’t come from some sort of magic 2.0l FI, it comes from the added stroke and the 2.0l heads that had better flow and a better spark plug orientation for a better burn.

I’m going to give you my opinion on HP. It doesn’t matter. (Worth what you paid).

Especially in a day and age of EV’s. Even with a Subie it will still be “slow”. Your average daily driver now can do 0-60 very close to what a 930 used to be.

These cars were never about HP. They were about light weight and superb handling. The ability to carry momentum in turns.

The stock 914 is air cooled and has a very low polar moment of inertia as a result of centralized engine mass. By the time you’ve added the extra weight and plumbing of a subie and compromised the centralized mass with a radiator, much of what defined the original 914 is lost. After all that work to do a conversion, you still don’t have a “fast” car by modern standards. The 2021 Toyota Camry was 0-60 in about 6 seconds. Let that sink in. These are facts and physics.

A good driver in a 100 Hp car can out drive an average driver in the same car with 130 HP on track or in the twisties. A professional driver in 100 hp will make a mockery of an average driver with 200 or more HP. You get the point.

If you truly feel big horsepower is what you want, the T4 isn’t for you. If you just want to do smoky burnouts - put a T4 rebuild out of your mind. If you just want a more modern power plant, move forward on a conversion with zero regret.

With respect to price for basic T4 rebuild:

New parts:
AA pistons and cylinders (cast iron cyclinders)
Cam and lifters, cam gear.
Crank bearings
Rod bearings / bushing - available rebuilt online ready to use
Cam bearings
Seal kit.

Rework / reuse :
Heads / valve job
Resize rods
Reuse crank - grind undersize if necessary

As Ninja said, inspect what you have. If you end up needing new heads that will increase costs drastically.

The rest is Machine work assuming your crank, and rods aren’t trashed.

This is what I was looking for! The more research and questions I ask about rebuilding to a 2056, the more varied answers I get. I realize boring the Mahle cylinders and then getting pistons to fit is ideal, but there is a cost, like everything. I was originally looking at doing a "correct" rebuild, but as I was looking more into it cost wise, it seemed like I was going to spend 5k-8k in parts and machine work just to attain a few extra HP/TQ and I could do a 6-cyl. Subaru conversion for around the same amount, which would put me at around 220-240HP, plus I would have a flat six in it. Then I started thinking about how I was going to be cutting up my body, possibly reducing the structural integrity, having to add reinforcements, etc. and I'm not sure I really want to do that.

HP isn't really a big deal to me as I have other cars that can do more for less if I want to go that route, I just thought it might be fun to have a 914 with more power. I know it's not going to win any drag races and do burn outs and what not and that's not a concern of mine. It's been awhile since I've driven a 914, especially on back roads (read 22 years), so I don't remember what they're like. Straight line is fun, but I enjoy twisting backroads WAY more!

Thanks for the more realistic look at the rebuild as this is what I had in mind and it seems WAY more attainable than other builds. I'm also glad to see that AA P&C's are decent. Here's what my build list would entail:

- AA P&C's (possibly balanced)
- Re-use rods (possibly balanced)
- Have crankshaft checked (possibly balanced)
- Have case checked (any suggestions?)
- New bearing ans seals
- New lifters
- New valve springs
- Why a new cam and gear?

Have cylinder heads checked before anything else is done/ordered

What do you mean with "Resizing the rods"?

I'm used to water cooled engines and have rebuilt a few with great success, but this will be my first air cooled engine, which I've heard are easier. I own a Euro repair shop, but we focus on newer vehicles (OBDII) and a smattering of older vehicles. I do own manuals and engine books for the 914's/flat 4's, which I will be utilizing.

Thanks you!

Resized rods are simply returning OEM rods to spec for journal diameter and small end bushing bore. I won’t detail the machine shop work to do so but they can be purchased at EMW for $150 and I don’t even see a core charge.

By asking the question of what is resizing - that suggests you want to watch the Raby video and get the Tom Wilson How to rebuild your VW book. In that book it covers exactly what resizing is and how and why it’s done.

The alternate is buy new H-beam or I-beam lightweight rods … but now we aren’t taking basic rebuild anymore.

I commend you for asking. There is no shame in asking questions !! But get that video and a review of the Wilson book under your belt before proceeding if you go the T4 route.

When I was in my 20s and my 1.7l needed bearings, the Wilson book walked me through my 1st rebuild with nothing more than basic hand tools (pay machine shop to measure things). That 1.7l rebuilt to 1911 took me about 100,000 miles before that car was totaled (not by me ). That book is priceless in my opinion but only costs about $25.

Click to view attachment

Note: T4 case is aluminum unlike Bug T1 magnesium case. Unless abused the T4 case usually doesn’t need to be line bored and can be reused basically as-is with a thorough cleaning. A local machinist can measure and verify crank bearing notes are within spec and usable. Again - pay machine shop for expertise and avoidance of buying expensive measuring tools.

That’s the book I have. I bought it back in my teens when I had a Karmann Ghia, but ended up never needing it, until now.

I appreciate the advice and I’m sure I’ll have more questions.

It’s funny how I’ve been in this business for over 20 years and didn’t do my first engine rebuild until 3 years ago in my e46. I enjoy engine rebuilding, but I want to make sure I get it right with this engine.

I plan on having everything checked out at the machine shop and go from there. I’ve considered the lighter component route, but with everything else I need to do to the car, I don’t want to get to crazy with it. I remember liking the 2056 that was in my car when I first bought it in ‘99, which is why I want to go back to that. I also liked the factory FI, especially with so few 914’s running it!

"I own a Euro repair shop."
"New lifters"
"Why a new cam and gear?"

These statements don't go together...

Anytime you replace one side of a scuff friction surface you should replace the other as the old will trash the new. This includes water cooled stuff.
Camshafts/lifters are almost always replaced together.

Only exception is SOB/SUB (shim over/under bucket) systems in my book.

If you're a shop owner either you should know this stuff OR know someone who does...

You need a "gearhead" to do this type of work. Someone who will continue to do this shit when money is no longer an issue.
If I win the Lottery, I will NOT stop wrenching.
I will stop wrenching on "Other People's Cars".

Being "professional" does not mean "automatically" better.

I know more amateur (not paid by a customer) gearheads than professional ones...

Here's a tip on T4s.

Porsche/VW made the internals heavier than anything else.
I can remove nearly 4 lbs. of reciprocating mass with just changing pistons and rods.
This number is the greatest amount I will have ever removed from an ICE.

I seldom have rods "resized" anymore. I'm usually replacing with lighter H-beams that are also a bunch stronger. Because of years of experience and poor-quality control I do have the brand-new H-beams inspected by both me and a machinist friend.

I know what I'm doing but I know others who are my equal and having two sets of eyes looking at something is NEVER a bad idea.

Now, the cost per horsepower is abysmal for a T4. You will spend more $ per HP than any other build you have done.

I'm a HUGE believer in upgrading the power delivery system to something more modern.

Looks like 175hp in a T4 will have a similar cost as putting a blown subbie in the 914.
So, 175 or 300+ and the T4 is topped out. The subbie is just starting to howl and lots of subbie guys exceed 500hp with that drive train.

The motor I'm planning for my big car has 250lbs ft + over a 4K range with 335hp for its "stock" HP limit. I can have as many of these as I want delivered to my shop for 2K a piece. This engine needs 85 octane so you can fuel it with crap fuel.
It will cost 10K+ to install it with a Boxster 6 speed but it will be VERY, VERY fast.
I should be able to hunt brand new Corvettes.
Maybe not ZR1s but you get the idea.
That 6 second Camary will not have a chance...


I'm just the opposite of SuperHawk...
The decline of the machine shops makes the good ones expensive and booked out for months.
If you're serious about continuing to build motors having you own tools and methods is critical.
In 40 years of wrenching, I've found EXACTLY two machine shops that were worth a shit, and I've tried 20+.
Decent measuring tools have also gotten far more available and affordable over than last 4 decades.

While I can appreciate the criticisms of what I should know and who I surround myself with, this is not why I posted. I posted to find out information on a vehicle I don't know well, hence why I put in there that my shop focuses on OBDII vehicles. I've read a lot on these engines and a fair amount of conflicting information or different opinions on them.

I am fully aware that there are non-professionals out there that know more, though usually in one particular area, and good mechanical guys that don't know much about the newer vehicle systems (CANBUS, modules, etc.). If I don't know something, I seek out the information, hence why I am here.

As for rebuilding, I've never had to do it or had the opportunity to do it until a few years ago. Life circumstance. I'm glad you have had the opportunity to do so, but please don't criticize me for what I do and don't know and it's unfortunate on some of the assumptions you have made about me.

That being said, I do appreciate the rest of your response and the information you provided. I generally do like more modern power trains, and this is why I was debating about doing the Subaru conversion and have been going back and forth on this. My main reservation is cutting into the body for the coolant lines and evacuation ducting for the radiator.

I also do agree with you that if I were to win the lottery, I would keep working on my own vehicles as I enjoy the work, but I would stop working on other people's cars. This is something I truly enjoy, but have not been able to fully get into due to life and finances, hence my lack of knowledge in some areas as it's impossible to know everything about vehicles. I am constantly learning.

I'm a bit of a take no prisoners type of guy. Sorry if I offended.

I've been wrenching since the birth of the check engine light.

OBD2 was 15 years in the future.

If you don't have an internal motor gearhead friend finding one (who knows his shit!) is the VERY QUICKEST way to gain knowledge yourself.

I got INSANELY lucky as a starting tech to hit 3 special things...

I found a really good machine shop that specialized in import ONLY way back in the early 80s. Their "specialty" was air-cooled VW. They still exist today.
https://www.automotivemachine.com/
I met Eric when he was 4 years old. He followed in his father Tom's footprints.

I worked for Corky Bell at Cartech Turbo Systems as one of my first jobs. I was a "lot lizard" and did everything everyone else did not want too.
My first "wrenching" job was in a shop were everyone else was Jedi master level. I didn't know how lucky it was to see "excellence" first.

Later I worked for Bill Sours at Passport Engines as the warranty tech. I had 18 months of "finding the root cause" of engine failures for warranty claim purposes.

I've seen SOO many ways to get it wrong.
That completely destroyed my faith in most shops.
I once found a set of missing Corvette keys embedded in a Volvo piston...
Bill was an engine master and lover of Italian cars. He showed me the way you have to approach work on Italians and exotics...

It was my friends and work mates that had the greatest effect on how quickly I picked this crap up.

Now, years ago rebuilding both engines and transmissions were a common job, and they are far more reliable today.
Back then 100K engine life was great. Today the figure is 300K.
I can see how a guy might not have that much exposure, especially if he's been working at a dealership who commonly are simple unit replacers now.

You will find most "gearheads" are getting old. I'm 59...

Sorry if I came off too strong.

Getting good mentors early was the single greatest catalyst for me!

Reading back I can see how it looks like I was critical of you as you are a professional.

I was not. I was stating how an enthusiast could be a good mentor, you don't have to earn your living at this to be truly excellent.

I was trying to suggest sources for your mental toolbox.

Not a problem and I appreciate the explanation. I didn’t really have anyone around me growing up that had the love of cars that I have. My dad did, but he didn’t have any training and was a self taught hobbyist. I worked for a brilliant Porsche mechanic early in my career, but he was a little unstable mentally and stressed me out too much, plus I moved with my then-girlfriend, now-wife, for college and got out of the business for a little bit. I got back into it by getting a job at G&W Motorsports, but the time commitment was not what I wanted as it also meant living away from my now-wife, which was more important to me. After that, we moved out of the country for a few years while my wife went to Vet school and got back into it at a Euro shop in Raleigh, NC. I loved working there and was learning A LOT, especially how to rebuild air cooled 911 engines, but we were there for a year as my wife was doing her clinical year at NC State, then decided to move back to Richmond. I got a job at Marcus Motorsports, but it was just me and doing self-teaching. We didn’t rebuild anything in-house, so no real learning opportunity. I did do fly-in track support for Autometrics for a few years, but got out when I had my first kid, at which point I went to work at BMW for a few years. We then moved, and I love been at independents ever since until I started h thy is shop 5 years ago.

No one wants to rebuild engines, they just want to go the used route. Now that im at a place where I can financially and physically do these things, I’m getting more into it on my own stuff so that way if I screw something up or make a mistake, it only affects me. I do eventually want to move into possible customer work, but want to hone my skills and knowledge more.

Not many people around me do this sort of thing, but the machine shop I use seems really good and he and I sit around and talk shop whenever I’m there as it’s fascinating and he is a wealth of knowledge. He’s trying to get me to come work for him so he can hand off the business, but I’m busy enough with what I have now.

I know I’m late to the game with some of this stuff, but it’s me over too late and I’m utilizing the wealth of knowledge here and elsewhere to gain more personal knowledge and learn the right way to do things.

I appreciate everything and thanks!

motorsports crew work is largely a young man’s game that doesn’t jive well with a stable home life. Good memories but don’t miss it!

I don’t miss the work or the all-nighters swapping an engine and then sleeping in one of the cars because there not enough time to go back to the hotel! It was fun, but I don’t miss it. Now if I go to the track, it’s either as a spectator or a participant.

I’ll start tearing my engine down this weekend. I went out to is evening and it still rotates nice and smooth and is in spec with the flywheel torqued. I just worry the cylinder walls are a little rusty on the bottom from the engine sitting. I had the heads off 11 years ago to inspect and there was a slight bit of surface rust on two of the cylinders, but it cleaned up easily. That being said, if I’m going through all of the trouble of overhauling the car, rebuilding the engine would probably be a good idea from sitting so long. Plus, I would like a 2056 and I need to check the heads.

Are the basic AA heads worth a damn? The price isn’t bad, but seems a little low, IMO.

Has anyone every built a 1911 with 2.0L heads? Just curious how much of a difference the relocated spark plug actually makes.

The original 2L is only 60cc greater than a 1911. Do the 1911's out there make about 100hp like the stock flat top piston 2L.

You have a guru already!

What you choose to do with him is up to you...

He ALREADY likes to talk! You should listen.

Machine shops are a dying breed.
You should Vulcan Mind Meld him if you can.
Take donuts, kolaches, pizza...
Find out what he likes.

Then ask to be involved...

He'll probably like showing stuff to a younger guy.

Even if you don't make a living at motor work seeing it done properly is advantageous.

Have you been working as a "line" tech at the dealerships and the indies?

What was your specialty?

Doing internal engine work on stock "appliance" cars is NOT something I do any longer.
I just change "units" myself on those as well.

The motor work I do is performance only.

If I'm taking it apart, I'm modding it...

Now, how I earn my bread and butter is specializing in automotive HVAC systems.
https://granburyautoac.com/

AC work has always been GRAVY at any of the dealerships I worked at...

I specialized in the cleanest, least liability, best paying work of all!

They are sort of "the only game in town" and many use them. If I build a 2L I'll get a pair as well.

If you look on AA you can find bare castings.

The reason these are available is the fact that the serious folks use nothing but the casting...

LN and Raby do EVERYTHING in house including the valve guide bores and seats.

I believe they weld the plug holes up and re-position the plug as well.

So, the new heads are "as good as are available" but can be improved on...

I mainly asking in case one or both heads are cracked.

My plan today was to bring my 914 back home from my shops storage unit and start breaking down the engine, but I rolled my ankle this morning getting out of the truck to hook up the trailer. Maybe tomorrow or later this weekend…..

Sorry to hear about your ankle. Hope you heal up quickly and fully.

The current AA Pistons 2 liter cylinder heads have the 2 liter cylinder chambers and plug locations:

https://aapistons.com/products/aa-bare-2-0l...stud-round-port

The older ones were often welded up and had the spark plug locations relocated to make proper 2 liter heads?

I believe that the big guys (Raby/LN) are still modifying the new stuff.

Along with a "relocation" they have been installing 12mm plugs instead of 14s...

Wouldn't surprise me if they have played with 10mm plugs...

10mm plugs are tiny!


I know this from stuff I've found searching, not personal experience!


Anyone have LN or Raby heads from the last 5 years?

I'd appreciate a verification.

I’m going to offer an idea.
Take the 2.0 liter on the stand, replace all rubber seals
Put tin back on
Install it
Get the FI working
Drive the car, sort out that…enjoy the summer

Put the other motor on the stand
Think about it for a bit

This is the right answer.

Get a motor in the car as quickly as possible and drive the car.

When the car is driving, THEN go build the "real" motor. But still be able to enjoy the car.

In my car, I have had a 2056 (that I drove the piss out of) and now have a 2258 that I put in last year. The bigger motor got built (not by me this time) over 18 months. I put about 4000 miles on my car while the bigger motor was being built.

If you have 2 motors, get one moving as quickly and cheaply as possible. Drive the car and spend the time and effort getting the second motor right.

For the motor on the stand - seals. Valves (so easy with the engine out). Send it. The only reason NOT to do this is major mechanical damage.

For the motor in the car - build it. A 1911 is a fun motor. Put new heads on for sure. Or find a cheap to free 2.0 crank and make is 2056. It is a SIMPLE build until you start adding stroke past the stock ratios.

The only thing I don't really get on board with anymore is using the stock FI for non-stock builds. There are so many fantastic EFI systems out there that don't care about your cam choice, don't care about your compression ratio, and don't use archaic mechanical "sensors" to run the engine. My 2056 was making 127hp at the rear wheels. Most make about that at the crank using the stock EFI. But I didn't hamstring myself using 50 year old fuel injection - I used relatively modern (at the time) Microsquirt injection, while retaining 1.8 L-jet plenum, airbox and intake runners. Today there are so many other, better choices.

And, you can build any motor to any displacement. All of my motors were built of 1.7 cases. My 2056 that I drove for about a decade started life as a 1700 Bus motor. So what? Build it to what you want.

Finally, you can do a subi swap for about the same money as a big TIV. You will have a LOT more power. It will fundamentally change the car. I've only driven one swap car - a 400HP WRX swapped 914. Was it fun - oh yeah. It was a rocket ship. And in the back of my mind I was reminded that the car was trying to kill me if I did not stay on top of it. I'm sure you get used to that much power on tap pretty quickly, but it did not feel like driving a 914 anymore. It really does depend on what you want. That much power in my WRX felt normal, my daily driver. In a 914 it felt like I was dueling. Fun, but definite danger. Granted, this car was bonkers. You can do a much more pedestrian Subi swap.... but why?

Zach

Best Laugh of my Week! Well Done!




I've been wrenching since the birth of the check engine light.

This summary ought to be nailed.

In this day and age where figures like 400 HP, 600 HP, even 1000 HP is tossed around with so much abandon it’s refreshing to see the truth be told.

What most people don’t realize is that many of these modern cars torque limit in 1st, 2nd, and even 3rd gear. That in turn is backed up by ABS, Traction Control, and ESC to keep the car under control in the hands of an average or even incompetent driver.

Then there is a chassis that is 3-5 times stiffer than a 914 (even with a cage). AWD to ground that horsepower, tires and brakes capable of dealing with that HP. The list goes on.

Consider the Porsche 908 race cars had about 350 HP, had a better chassis than a 914, and took a professional driver with serous driving skill to tap its potential. Ask yourself and be honest - how many of us have the skill to drive a car like that? On the street with trees, ditches, and no runoff?

I’ve been around lots of early to late 90s Vipers, 400 HP, no driver aids. Can’t tell you how many of those I’ve seen wrecked over the years by people that thought they could handle 400 HP. Again, that car has a stiffer chassis and far more tire than you can put under a 914 - even with GT flares.

Rant over.

Well done Zach!

The 914 is known for its handling. If you want it to be a muscle car, get a Mustang or Camero. It's either going to be quick going in a straight line or hug the curves like it's on rails. Myself, I like the second option. I built an ERA Cobra 289 FIA with a 302 stroked to 331 cu.in. with Weber's putting out 400 HP. I would be up to 120 mph in the blink of an eye. I ended up selling it and bought the 914. It's a lot more fun driving the 914.

I’ve thought about going the route of just getting the engine on the stand in the car to evaluate and drive the car for the year, but there is a rust area that I have attached that is a little concerning. I cut it out and it’s not as bad as I thought, but I’d still replace the long. I had thought about just patching it for this year then doing the body work this winter, but need to reassess.

Click to view attachment

As for the other engine, it’s just a 1.8L long block with no fuel system. I’ve thought about an aftermarket FI system, but not sure what works well with this car using the factory intake manifold. I would like to have multiple working engines, and I know the 1.8L does work. I’m not looking for huge power or a hot rod T4, just want something with a little more than factory power.

Concerning the bigger power, I was mainly looking to have a 6 in the car with good power and TQ, and was not looking to do anything to it, but after A LOT of back and forth, have settled on keeping the T4. If I get the itch down the road, I’ll probably just buy a converted car.

Why are you limiting yourself with the factory intake?

If you're trying to stay "stock" you're stuck with the factory FI.

This can be the "choke" point in performance.

Do you have a completely sorted, perfectly running FI system?

If not, I'd look to some of the D-jet threads regarding the troubles many have trying to solve 50-year-old problems. It often takes a new wiring harness!

If I had both motors (and they were good) I'd probably install the 1.8 and provision it with IDFs (40s).
You should get some experience with the intricacies of ITB carburetor tuning if you don't have any experience yet.

I'd build the 2.0 and it would start on the exact same carbs (maybe different venturis and jets).

I'd then come up with an aftermarket FI using a modern digital ECU.

IDF clones with injector bosses are already available.

Nice ones https://www.jenvey.co.uk/throttle-bodies-an...odies-idf-style

Lots of cheap Chinese stuff on E-bay as well...

This will allow you to re-use everything but the carbs on the IDF set up.
This is the path that MOST of the aftermarket FI stuff takes anyways regarding T4s.
It is not the ultimate path IMO.
It is a big step in the right direction in my book.

If I was contemplating being "European Performance Shop" these skills (understanding aftermarket carb provisioning and having the ability to retro fit modern FI onto older cars) should be lucrative in the future IMO.

As old school FI parts get rarer (carb parts are getting scarce as well) this will be the most common upgrade path and although there are FI specialist shops, most are car specific (IE "The Bug Shop" just does air-cooled VW stuff).

A specialist in "applying modern FI to any old car" might be a good path to take.
5 years from now I'd expect to have a chassis dyno and be the shop that everyone suggests for FI work.
"Just take it to Zaffer's" would be what I was shooting for...

These tips are not specific to 914s.

I'm suggesting skills that might help a young tech in the next 20 years.

I'm tuning YOU...

A T4 in a 914 is simple, no VVT, no variable intake path, no cat (most), and easy to work on.
It is an EXCELLENT choice as a "training project".

Now, if you're going to do performance work you need to be damn careful about what you do stuff on for customers. If you stay "non-emissions" cars or track cars only you're "safer" but...
If the EPA comes knocking, they will crime scene tape up your shop, denying you entrance, while they do their "investigation" which will probably take some time...

Can you afford NOT having access to your shop for 6 weeks or more?

There was more than a single reason for specializing in AC for me but AVOIDING an EPA audit was one of the BIG ones...
The only rule I have to be careful of is "Never Release Refrigerant" which is pretty easy to follow.

Even on refrigerant release there exists a "bounty".
If you turn someone in who is a negligent releaser you can make 10K!
This is an ASS KICKER for junk yards...
Don't have a recycling machine at a junk yard?
EPA might fine you 100K+!
Especially if a pissed off past employee turns you in for the money...

Now, just having a broken recycle machine can save your ass. Most of the investigating officers don't know jack shit and don't have a snowball's chance of operating a machine themselves.
This is handy when you have a trashed machine.
There's a good chance a junkyard will buy it.

If you're already doing AC work now, make sure to have a recycle machine (even a broken one) in your shop now. You also need to get 609 certified but that is STUPID easy.
The original certification was the back page of a "rules" pamphlet. All the answers were in the booklet.
If you could READ you could pass...

As stated earlier - microsquirt can be used with any of the OEM intakes. If you’re already competent in OBD, CAN, and modules, microsquirt is within the realm of the possible.

Check out the DubShop TBI FI kit if you want something a bit more turn key and want to exchange money instead of time building your own FI from parts, creating wiring, etc.

In either instance, you’ll still have to tune it. However each of these opens up the option to use whatever cam you want, raised compression ratios, and the ability to make about 20 - 30% more power than stock.

Don’t underestimate how significant a 20% bump in power is on a lightweight car.

The stock FI is the single most limiting "system" currently in the car.
Carbs are the easiest, most economical option.
Dedicated modern FI is the "correct" path.

I could install a micro-squirt and keep ALL of the "factory look" and hoses.

Reuse EVERYTHING but the electronics. Might be able to re-use the fuel supply and injectors as well.

My only question is WHY when higher output designs are available?

And I believe SuperHawk996 is being very conservative regarding his "improvement" amounts.
I'd be hunting higher percentages...

The very best thing about the modern FI is its scalability.
Triple the HP via a LN level 2270 from a wimpy 1.8l
Keystrokes are what is required!
... along with a much bigger exhaust!

Now, (I cannot remember who I saw post this) a member here posted results of 150+ HP through the stock intake (modified FI, I think it was an L-jet system) so the intake itself can handle at least that amount.
It's the electronics and its sensing devices that are the Achille's heel here.

If I build a 2055 with one of my 2.0 cores my target will be 100% more power at the rear wheels over the bone stock 31K 1.8L L-jet engine that is original to the car.
I have the original FI (ratty and old but all parts there) and I purchased a complete running L-jet set up with a newer Jeff Bowlsby harness, newer injectors, taken off a nice car for the installation of modern stuff. Came with a 123 Bluetooth distributor.
I'm expecting 60-70 at the rear wheels stock.
Built 2055 with carbs I'd expect 100-120.
More serious 2055 with modern FI 125-140.

The real kicker is how each are going to feel...

The modern FI will be significantly better at low and mid throttle positions.
"Daily driving" is what these systems excel at.
Everything will be better and more user friendly.
It will cold start perfectly and not be the slightest bit "snorty" during warm up.

If you're looking for power improvements don't hamstring yourself with a 50+ year old design that parts are getting critical for.

I don’t know if the FI system I have is perfectly running as I have never had this particular system on my car (my old one burned up years ago). I repaired the wiring harness, have a rebuilt MPS, new injectors (MB), but the rest is untested. I’ll most likely get the ECU tested/repaired at FIC. I’m not new to the FI on these cars, I just don’t see them a lot. I installed one on a 1.8L that had carbs, but still had the original cam in it and had to sort that, but wasn’t terrible.

As for running the original FI, I know it’s archaic by today’s standards, but there is something to having it sorted and working. As for carbs, I do have experience with them, I just don’t like them. I had a ‘72 Fiat 850 Spyder, a ‘74 Ghia with twin two-barrell Dellortos, a ‘74 Spitfire with twin side draft SU’s, an ‘89 Ninja with factory carbs, and have worked on multiple vehicles with carbs. I’d rather stick with FI.

I have seen the FI setups with ITB’s that look like carbs, and was thinking about doing that when I had my Ghia, but didn’t keep it long enough as I sold it when I bought my 914. I’m not looking to maximize the power side of things right away and may do it in stages. We’ll see, one step at a time.

As for A/C work, I am certified and have 2 A/C machines: one R-134 and one R-134/R-1234yf. We had to get the yf one due to newer European vehicles using it. I like A/C work.

As for modifications, we stay away from that, primarily due to the EPA cracking down on everything. My partners and I do some stuff with good customers, but even there it’s limited for EPA reasons. I like working on older vehicles, but my partners hate it and the business does better with newer vehicles as our techs don’t know older stuff, and neither do my partners. We do work on older BMW’s and Porsches, but that’s it and I don’t like messing with CIS if I don’t have to, but will and have some experience with it from my Rabbits in the past.

I would like to focus more on older Porsches and BMW’s and there really aren’t many people in my area who know much about them, but time is not on my side at the moment. I realize I could do some in my spare time, but I prefer to spend that time with my family. My daughters don’t show a lot of interest when I do stuff at home, but I’ll probably make them help me as they get older so they know the basics and they will learn to drive a manual!

Back to the topic at hand, I may throw the engine in the car when I get it back home and see how it does. It turns by hand easily and the end play is within spec, so I may see what works and what doesn’t. It wouldn’t take me too terribly long to do that as I have everything I need to make it happen, just need to put it back in the car: SS fuel lines already run, just need to reinstall the fuel tank and pump, reassemble everything on the external part of the engine, then install and see what happens. Worst case: I have to take it back out; best case is it runs, is driveable, and I can enjoy it for a season. Then, pull it down this winter and start on the body work, which is a whole other story…..

Thanks for the advice and the knowledge!

That’s virtually child abuse, forcing them to learn to drive a manual. Might as well teach them how to properly use a buggy whip with horse and carriage

my hats off to you for tryingClick to view attachment

My oldest has told me multiple times she wants to, plus the Mini I’m going to give her when she turns 16 is a manual!

Love the link!

Well, I’m one step closer to starting back on my 914: I brought home the 1.8L long block. I still need to look and see if I still have the carb setup for this engine. If I do, I’ll most likely patch what I cut out of the long and put it back together enough to test the 1.8L engine. If that passes, I’ll probably get it together enough to drive safely on the road for this year and then start working on the rust repairs this fall.

I forgot that I have a spare 2.0L block with crank and cam, just don’t know the condition of it. That will have to be sorted as well!

Next step: get my 914 back home to start assessing everything, which will hopefully be tomorrow!

I used my Ljet injection when I built my 2056. I bought a 50mm Vanagon throttle body on the Samba web site. I modified the throttle body using the shaft from the 1.8 throttle body to accept the 50mm butterfly. Modified the plenum opening to 50mm using a tail pipe expander. Richened up the ECU using an O2 sensor and gauge to have 13.2 AFR at cruising speed. Also modified the air horn on the air cleaner box to 50mm. Using HAM RS 1.8 heads.