2.0L rebuild Options

[Zaffer]

I know this subject has been beaten to death, but just trying to look for the most current information on parts as I know quality changes over time.

I am no longer doing a Subaru six conversion to my 914 as I will keep the T4. I have 2, one 2.0L and one 1.8L. My car is a factory ‘75 2.0L. I will run factory FI and am not interested in Megasquirt, carbs, or any other aftermarket FI, at least for now. The 2.0L I’m using I bought from George Hussey in 2009 “in running condition”, but it’s been sitting on my engine stand since.

I am going to rebuild my 2.0L and bump it up to a 2056, but have some (a lot of) questions:

Can I use the factory FI for a 2270? I don’t think so, IIRC, but want to make sure.

I have the 1.8L that I could make a 1911, but is it any better than a 2056? Why or why not?

What P&C’s should I use? I know the main ones are AA and KB. I’m looking at the Biral AA’s at the moment.

Can I use a more aggressive cam with factory FI?

What valve springs should I use and is there a better setup?

My initial plan is as follows:
- Install new P&C’s
- Balance the crankshaft, rods, and pistons
- Rebuild the heads: replace/upgrade the valve springs, replace the valve guides, inspect and replace/upgrade(?) valves
- Either use factory cam or upgrade cam, if possible with factory FI.
- Install a larger oil pump, if still available.

While I want to make some improvements with the engine, I am not going to spend 10K+ doing so. This car will be a nice weather driver and I do not plan on doing any track events or autoX’s with it. I want to make the engine nice and “reliable”, but I don’t need new heads, Nickies, etc. I am rebuilding the engine myself but using a really good local machine shop as well. I do not need to get every Nth of power from the engine, but would like to reasonably improve on it without going crazy.

Any advice on what to, and not to, do is welcome and I realize I’m going to get multiple different answers.

As for the car itself, it’ll remain mostly stock with Factory 4-lug Fuchs, factory brakes, etc.

Thanks!

[Superhawk996]

With respect to price for basic T4 rebuild:

New parts:
AA pistons and cylinders (cast iron cyclinders)
Cam and lifters, cam gear.
Crank bearings
Rod bearings / bushing - available rebuilt online ready to use
Cam bearings
Seal kit.

Rework / reuse :
Heads / valve job
Resize rods
Reuse crank - grind undersize if necessary

As Ninja said, inspect what you have. If you end up needing new heads that will increase costs drastically.

The rest is Machine work assuming your crank, and rods aren’t trashed.

[Zaffer]

With respect to price for basic T4 rebuild:

New parts:
AA pistons and cylinders (cast iron cyclinders)
Cam and lifters, cam gear.
Crank bearings
Cam bearings
Seal kit.

Rework / reuse :
Heads / valve job
Resize rods
Reuse crank

As Ninja said, inspect what you have. If you end up needing new heads that will increase costs drastically.

The rest is Machine work assuming your crank, and rods aren’t trashed.

This is what I was looking for! The more research and questions I ask about rebuilding to a 2056, the more varied answers I get. I realize boring the Mahle cylinders and then getting pistons to fit is ideal, but there is a cost, like everything. I was originally looking at doing a "correct" rebuild, but as I was looking more into it cost wise, it seemed like I was going to spend 5k-8k in parts and machine work just to attain a few extra HP/TQ and I could do a 6-cyl. Subaru conversion for around the same amount, which would put me at around 220-240HP, plus I would have a flat six in it. Then I started thinking about how I was going to be cutting up my body, possibly reducing the structural integrity, having to add reinforcements, etc. and I'm not sure I really want to do that.

HP isn't really a big deal to me as I have other cars that can do more for less if I want to go that route, I just thought it might be fun to have a 914 with more power. I know it's not going to win any drag races and do burn outs and what not and that's not a concern of mine. It's been awhile since I've driven a 914, especially on back roads (read 22 years), so I don't remember what they're like. Straight line is fun, but I enjoy twisting backroads WAY more!

Thanks for the more realistic look at the rebuild as this is what I had in mind and it seems WAY more attainable than other builds. I'm also glad to see that AA P&C's are decent. Here's what my build list would entail:

- AA P&C's (possibly balanced)
- Re-use rods (possibly balanced)
- Have crankshaft checked (possibly balanced)
- Have case checked (any suggestions?)
- New bearing ans seals
- New lifters
- New valve springs
- Why a new cam and gear?

Have cylinder heads checked before anything else is done/ordered

What do you mean with "Resizing the rods"?

I'm used to water cooled engines and have rebuilt a few with great success, but this will be my first air cooled engine, which I've heard are easier. I own a Euro repair shop, but we focus on newer vehicles (OBDII) and a smattering of older vehicles. I do own manuals and engine books for the 914's/flat 4's, which I will be utilizing.

Thanks you!