2.0L rebuild Options

[Zaffer]

I know this subject has been beaten to death, but just trying to look for the most current information on parts as I know quality changes over time.

I am no longer doing a Subaru six conversion to my 914 as I will keep the T4. I have 2, one 2.0L and one 1.8L. My car is a factory ‘75 2.0L. I will run factory FI and am not interested in Megasquirt, carbs, or any other aftermarket FI, at least for now. The 2.0L I’m using I bought from George Hussey in 2009 “in running condition”, but it’s been sitting on my engine stand since.

I am going to rebuild my 2.0L and bump it up to a 2056, but have some (a lot of) questions:

Can I use the factory FI for a 2270? I don’t think so, IIRC, but want to make sure.

I have the 1.8L that I could make a 1911, but is it any better than a 2056? Why or why not?

What P&C’s should I use? I know the main ones are AA and KB. I’m looking at the Biral AA’s at the moment.

Can I use a more aggressive cam with factory FI?

What valve springs should I use and is there a better setup?

My initial plan is as follows:
- Install new P&C’s
- Balance the crankshaft, rods, and pistons
- Rebuild the heads: replace/upgrade the valve springs, replace the valve guides, inspect and replace/upgrade(?) valves
- Either use factory cam or upgrade cam, if possible with factory FI.
- Install a larger oil pump, if still available.

While I want to make some improvements with the engine, I am not going to spend 10K+ doing so. This car will be a nice weather driver and I do not plan on doing any track events or autoX’s with it. I want to make the engine nice and “reliable”, but I don’t need new heads, Nickies, etc. I am rebuilding the engine myself but using a really good local machine shop as well. I do not need to get every Nth of power from the engine, but would like to reasonably improve on it without going crazy.

Any advice on what to, and not to, do is welcome and I realize I’m going to get multiple different answers.

As for the car itself, it’ll remain mostly stock with Factory 4-lug Fuchs, factory brakes, etc.

Thanks!

[technicalninja]

"I own a Euro repair shop."
"New lifters"
"Why a new cam and gear?"

These statements don't go together...

Anytime you replace one side of a scuff friction surface you should replace the other as the old will trash the new. This includes water cooled stuff.
Camshafts/lifters are almost always replaced together.

Only exception is SOB/SUB (shim over/under bucket) systems in my book.

If you're a shop owner either you should know this stuff OR know someone who does...

You need a "gearhead" to do this type of work. Someone who will continue to do this shit when money is no longer an issue.
If I win the Lottery, I will NOT stop wrenching.
I will stop wrenching on "Other People's Cars".

Being "professional" does not mean "automatically" better.

I know more amateur (not paid by a customer) gearheads than professional ones...

Here's a tip on T4s.

Porsche/VW made the internals heavier than anything else.
I can remove nearly 4 lbs. of reciprocating mass with just changing pistons and rods.
This number is the greatest amount I will have ever removed from an ICE.

I seldom have rods "resized" anymore. I'm usually replacing with lighter H-beams that are also a bunch stronger. Because of years of experience and poor-quality control I do have the brand-new H-beams inspected by both me and a machinist friend.

I know what I'm doing but I know others who are my equal and having two sets of eyes looking at something is NEVER a bad idea.

Now, the cost per horsepower is abysmal for a T4. You will spend more $ per HP than any other build you have done.

I'm a HUGE believer in upgrading the power delivery system to something more modern.

Looks like 175hp in a T4 will have a similar cost as putting a blown subbie in the 914.
So, 175 or 300+ and the T4 is topped out. The subbie is just starting to howl and lots of subbie guys exceed 500hp with that drive train.

The motor I'm planning for my big car has 250lbs ft + over a 4K range with 335hp for its "stock" HP limit. I can have as many of these as I want delivered to my shop for 2K a piece. This engine needs 85 octane so you can fuel it with crap fuel.
It will cost 10K+ to install it with a Boxster 6 speed but it will be VERY, VERY fast.
I should be able to hunt brand new Corvettes.
Maybe not ZR1s but you get the idea.
That 6 second Camary will not have a chance...


I'm just the opposite of SuperHawk...
The decline of the machine shops makes the good ones expensive and booked out for months.
If you're serious about continuing to build motors having you own tools and methods is critical.
In 40 years of wrenching, I've found EXACTLY two machine shops that were worth a shit, and I've tried 20+.
Decent measuring tools have also gotten far more available and affordable over than last 4 decades.

[Zaffer]

"I own a Euro repair shop."
"New lifters"
"Why a new cam and gear?"

These statements don't go together...

Anytime you replace one side of a scuff friction surface you should replace the other as the old will trash the new. This includes water cooled stuff.
Camshafts/lifters are almost always replaced together.

Only exception is SOB/SUB (shim over/under bucket) systems in my book.

If you're a shop owner either you should know this stuff OR know someone who does...

You need a "gearhead" to do this type of work. Someone who will continue to do this shit when money is no longer an issue.
If I win the Lottery, I will NOT stop wrenching.
I will stop wrenching on "Other People's Cars".

Being "professional" does not mean "automatically" better.

I know more amateur (not paid by a customer) gearheads than professional ones...

While I can appreciate the criticisms of what I should know and who I surround myself with, this is not why I posted. I posted to find out information on a vehicle I don't know well, hence why I put in there that my shop focuses on OBDII vehicles. I've read a lot on these engines and a fair amount of conflicting information or different opinions on them.

I am fully aware that there are non-professionals out there that know more, though usually in one particular area, and good mechanical guys that don't know much about the newer vehicle systems (CANBUS, modules, etc.). If I don't know something, I seek out the information, hence why I am here.

As for rebuilding, I've never had to do it or had the opportunity to do it until a few years ago. Life circumstance. I'm glad you have had the opportunity to do so, but please don't criticize me for what I do and don't know and it's unfortunate on some of the assumptions you have made about me.

That being said, I do appreciate the rest of your response and the information you provided. I generally do like more modern power trains, and this is why I was debating about doing the Subaru conversion and have been going back and forth on this. My main reservation is cutting into the body for the coolant lines and evacuation ducting for the radiator.

I also do agree with you that if I were to win the lottery, I would keep working on my own vehicles as I enjoy the work, but I would stop working on other people's cars. This is something I truly enjoy, but have not been able to fully get into due to life and finances, hence my lack of knowledge in some areas as it's impossible to know everything about vehicles. I am constantly learning.