2.0L rebuild Options

[Zaffer]

I know this subject has been beaten to death, but just trying to look for the most current information on parts as I know quality changes over time.

I am no longer doing a Subaru six conversion to my 914 as I will keep the T4. I have 2, one 2.0L and one 1.8L. My car is a factory ‘75 2.0L. I will run factory FI and am not interested in Megasquirt, carbs, or any other aftermarket FI, at least for now. The 2.0L I’m using I bought from George Hussey in 2009 “in running condition”, but it’s been sitting on my engine stand since.

I am going to rebuild my 2.0L and bump it up to a 2056, but have some (a lot of) questions:

Can I use the factory FI for a 2270? I don’t think so, IIRC, but want to make sure.

I have the 1.8L that I could make a 1911, but is it any better than a 2056? Why or why not?

What P&C’s should I use? I know the main ones are AA and KB. I’m looking at the Biral AA’s at the moment.

Can I use a more aggressive cam with factory FI?

What valve springs should I use and is there a better setup?

My initial plan is as follows:
- Install new P&C’s
- Balance the crankshaft, rods, and pistons
- Rebuild the heads: replace/upgrade the valve springs, replace the valve guides, inspect and replace/upgrade(?) valves
- Either use factory cam or upgrade cam, if possible with factory FI.
- Install a larger oil pump, if still available.

While I want to make some improvements with the engine, I am not going to spend 10K+ doing so. This car will be a nice weather driver and I do not plan on doing any track events or autoX’s with it. I want to make the engine nice and “reliable”, but I don’t need new heads, Nickies, etc. I am rebuilding the engine myself but using a really good local machine shop as well. I do not need to get every Nth of power from the engine, but would like to reasonably improve on it without going crazy.

Any advice on what to, and not to, do is welcome and I realize I’m going to get multiple different answers.

As for the car itself, it’ll remain mostly stock with Factory 4-lug Fuchs, factory brakes, etc.

Thanks!

[r_towle]

I’m going to offer an idea.
Take the 2.0 liter on the stand, replace all rubber seals
Put tin back on
Install it
Get the FI working
Drive the car, sort out that…enjoy the summer

Put the other motor on the stand
Think about it for a bit

[VaccaRabite]

I’m going to offer an idea.
Take the 2.0 liter on the stand, replace all rubber seals
Put tin back on
Install it
Get the FI working
Drive the car, sort out that…enjoy the summer

Put the other motor on the stand
Think about it for a bit

This is the right answer.

Get a motor in the car as quickly as possible and drive the car.

When the car is driving, THEN go build the "real" motor. But still be able to enjoy the car.

In my car, I have had a 2056 (that I drove the piss out of) and now have a 2258 that I put in last year. The bigger motor got built (not by me this time) over 18 months. I put about 4000 miles on my car while the bigger motor was being built.

If you have 2 motors, get one moving as quickly and cheaply as possible. Drive the car and spend the time and effort getting the second motor right.

For the motor on the stand - seals. Valves (so easy with the engine out). Send it. The only reason NOT to do this is major mechanical damage.

For the motor in the car - build it. A 1911 is a fun motor. Put new heads on for sure. Or find a cheap to free 2.0 crank and make is 2056. It is a SIMPLE build until you start adding stroke past the stock ratios.

The only thing I don't really get on board with anymore is using the stock FI for non-stock builds. There are so many fantastic EFI systems out there that don't care about your cam choice, don't care about your compression ratio, and don't use archaic mechanical "sensors" to run the engine. My 2056 was making 127hp at the rear wheels. Most make about that at the crank using the stock EFI. But I didn't hamstring myself using 50 year old fuel injection - I used relatively modern (at the time) Microsquirt injection, while retaining 1.8 L-jet plenum, airbox and intake runners. Today there are so many other, better choices.

And, you can build any motor to any displacement. All of my motors were built of 1.7 cases. My 2056 that I drove for about a decade started life as a 1700 Bus motor. So what? Build it to what you want.

Finally, you can do a subi swap for about the same money as a big TIV. You will have a LOT more power. It will fundamentally change the car. I've only driven one swap car - a 400HP WRX swapped 914. Was it fun - oh yeah. It was a rocket ship. And in the back of my mind I was reminded that the car was trying to kill me if I did not stay on top of it. I'm sure you get used to that much power on tap pretty quickly, but it did not feel like driving a 914 anymore. It really does depend on what you want. That much power in my WRX felt normal, my daily driver. In a 914 it felt like I was dueling. Fun, but definite danger. Granted, this car was bonkers. You can do a much more pedestrian Subi swap.... but why?

Zach