2.0L rebuild Options

[Zaffer]

I know this subject has been beaten to death, but just trying to look for the most current information on parts as I know quality changes over time.

I am no longer doing a Subaru six conversion to my 914 as I will keep the T4. I have 2, one 2.0L and one 1.8L. My car is a factory ‘75 2.0L. I will run factory FI and am not interested in Megasquirt, carbs, or any other aftermarket FI, at least for now. The 2.0L I’m using I bought from George Hussey in 2009 “in running condition”, but it’s been sitting on my engine stand since.

I am going to rebuild my 2.0L and bump it up to a 2056, but have some (a lot of) questions:

Can I use the factory FI for a 2270? I don’t think so, IIRC, but want to make sure.

I have the 1.8L that I could make a 1911, but is it any better than a 2056? Why or why not?

What P&C’s should I use? I know the main ones are AA and KB. I’m looking at the Biral AA’s at the moment.

Can I use a more aggressive cam with factory FI?

What valve springs should I use and is there a better setup?

My initial plan is as follows:
- Install new P&C’s
- Balance the crankshaft, rods, and pistons
- Rebuild the heads: replace/upgrade the valve springs, replace the valve guides, inspect and replace/upgrade(?) valves
- Either use factory cam or upgrade cam, if possible with factory FI.
- Install a larger oil pump, if still available.

While I want to make some improvements with the engine, I am not going to spend 10K+ doing so. This car will be a nice weather driver and I do not plan on doing any track events or autoX’s with it. I want to make the engine nice and “reliable”, but I don’t need new heads, Nickies, etc. I am rebuilding the engine myself but using a really good local machine shop as well. I do not need to get every Nth of power from the engine, but would like to reasonably improve on it without going crazy.

Any advice on what to, and not to, do is welcome and I realize I’m going to get multiple different answers.

As for the car itself, it’ll remain mostly stock with Factory 4-lug Fuchs, factory brakes, etc.

Thanks!

[technicalninja]

Why are you limiting yourself with the factory intake?

If you're trying to stay "stock" you're stuck with the factory FI.

This can be the "choke" point in performance.

Do you have a completely sorted, perfectly running FI system?

If not, I'd look to some of the D-jet threads regarding the troubles many have trying to solve 50-year-old problems. It often takes a new wiring harness!

If I had both motors (and they were good) I'd probably install the 1.8 and provision it with IDFs (40s).
You should get some experience with the intricacies of ITB carburetor tuning if you don't have any experience yet.

I'd build the 2.0 and it would start on the exact same carbs (maybe different venturis and jets).

I'd then come up with an aftermarket FI using a modern digital ECU.

IDF clones with injector bosses are already available.

Nice ones https://www.jenvey.co.uk/throttle-bodies-an...odies-idf-style

Lots of cheap Chinese stuff on E-bay as well...

This will allow you to re-use everything but the carbs on the IDF set up.
This is the path that MOST of the aftermarket FI stuff takes anyways regarding T4s.
It is not the ultimate path IMO.
It is a big step in the right direction in my book.

If I was contemplating being "European Performance Shop" these skills (understanding aftermarket carb provisioning and having the ability to retro fit modern FI onto older cars) should be lucrative in the future IMO.

As old school FI parts get rarer (carb parts are getting scarce as well) this will be the most common upgrade path and although there are FI specialist shops, most are car specific (IE "The Bug Shop" just does air-cooled VW stuff).

A specialist in "applying modern FI to any old car" might be a good path to take.
5 years from now I'd expect to have a chassis dyno and be the shop that everyone suggests for FI work.
"Just take it to Zaffer's" would be what I was shooting for...

These tips are not specific to 914s.

I'm suggesting skills that might help a young tech in the next 20 years.

I'm tuning YOU...

A T4 in a 914 is simple, no VVT, no variable intake path, no cat (most), and easy to work on.
It is an EXCELLENT choice as a "training project".

Now, if you're going to do performance work you need to be damn careful about what you do stuff on for customers. If you stay "non-emissions" cars or track cars only you're "safer" but...
If the EPA comes knocking, they will crime scene tape up your shop, denying you entrance, while they do their "investigation" which will probably take some time...

Can you afford NOT having access to your shop for 6 weeks or more?

There was more than a single reason for specializing in AC for me but AVOIDING an EPA audit was one of the BIG ones...
The only rule I have to be careful of is "Never Release Refrigerant" which is pretty easy to follow.

Even on refrigerant release there exists a "bounty".
If you turn someone in who is a negligent releaser you can make 10K!
This is an ASS KICKER for junk yards...
Don't have a recycling machine at a junk yard?
EPA might fine you 100K+!
Especially if a pissed off past employee turns you in for the money...

Now, just having a broken recycle machine can save your ass. Most of the investigating officers don't know jack shit and don't have a snowball's chance of operating a machine themselves.
This is handy when you have a trashed machine.
There's a good chance a junkyard will buy it.

If you're already doing AC work now, make sure to have a recycle machine (even a broken one) in your shop now. You also need to get 609 certified but that is STUPID easy.
The original certification was the back page of a "rules" pamphlet. All the answers were in the booklet.
If you could READ you could pass...