2.0L rebuild Options

[Zaffer]

I know this subject has been beaten to death, but just trying to look for the most current information on parts as I know quality changes over time.

I am no longer doing a Subaru six conversion to my 914 as I will keep the T4. I have 2, one 2.0L and one 1.8L. My car is a factory ‘75 2.0L. I will run factory FI and am not interested in Megasquirt, carbs, or any other aftermarket FI, at least for now. The 2.0L I’m using I bought from George Hussey in 2009 “in running condition”, but it’s been sitting on my engine stand since.

I am going to rebuild my 2.0L and bump it up to a 2056, but have some (a lot of) questions:

Can I use the factory FI for a 2270? I don’t think so, IIRC, but want to make sure.

I have the 1.8L that I could make a 1911, but is it any better than a 2056? Why or why not?

What P&C’s should I use? I know the main ones are AA and KB. I’m looking at the Biral AA’s at the moment.

Can I use a more aggressive cam with factory FI?

What valve springs should I use and is there a better setup?

My initial plan is as follows:
- Install new P&C’s
- Balance the crankshaft, rods, and pistons
- Rebuild the heads: replace/upgrade the valve springs, replace the valve guides, inspect and replace/upgrade(?) valves
- Either use factory cam or upgrade cam, if possible with factory FI.
- Install a larger oil pump, if still available.

While I want to make some improvements with the engine, I am not going to spend 10K+ doing so. This car will be a nice weather driver and I do not plan on doing any track events or autoX’s with it. I want to make the engine nice and “reliable”, but I don’t need new heads, Nickies, etc. I am rebuilding the engine myself but using a really good local machine shop as well. I do not need to get every Nth of power from the engine, but would like to reasonably improve on it without going crazy.

Any advice on what to, and not to, do is welcome and I realize I’m going to get multiple different answers.

As for the car itself, it’ll remain mostly stock with Factory 4-lug Fuchs, factory brakes, etc.

Thanks!

[technicalninja]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

The stock FI is the single most limiting "system" currently in the car.
Carbs are the easiest, most economical option.
Dedicated modern FI is the "correct" path.

I could install a micro-squirt and keep ALL of the "factory look" and hoses.

Reuse EVERYTHING but the electronics. Might be able to re-use the fuel supply and injectors as well.

My only question is WHY when higher output designs are available?

And I believe SuperHawk996 is being very conservative regarding his "improvement" amounts.
I'd be hunting higher percentages...

The very best thing about the modern FI is its scalability.
Triple the HP via a LN level 2270 from a wimpy 1.8l
Keystrokes are what is required!
... along with a much bigger exhaust!

Now, (I cannot remember who I saw post this) a member here posted results of 150+ HP through the stock intake (modified FI, I think it was an L-jet system) so the intake itself can handle at least that amount.
It's the electronics and its sensing devices that are the Achille's heel here.

If I build a 2055 with one of my 2.0 cores my target will be 100% more power at the rear wheels over the bone stock 31K 1.8L L-jet engine that is original to the car.
I have the original FI (ratty and old but all parts there) and I purchased a complete running L-jet set up with a newer Jeff Bowlsby harness, newer injectors, taken off a nice car for the installation of modern stuff. Came with a 123 Bluetooth distributor.
I'm expecting 60-70 at the rear wheels stock.
Built 2055 with carbs I'd expect 100-120.
More serious 2055 with modern FI 125-140.

The real kicker is how each are going to feel...

The modern FI will be significantly better at low and mid throttle positions.
"Daily driving" is what these systems excel at.
Everything will be better and more user friendly.
It will cold start perfectly and not be the slightest bit "snorty" during warm up.

If you're looking for power improvements don't hamstring yourself with a 50+ year old design that parts are getting critical for.