2.0L rebuild |
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2.0L rebuild |
Zaffer |
Apr 20 2024, 08:04 AM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 96 Joined: 10-December 06 From: Radiant, VA Member No.: 7,343 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
I know this subject has been beaten to death, but just trying to look for the most current information on parts as I know quality changes over time.
I am no longer doing a Subaru six conversion to my 914 as I will keep the T4. I have 2, one 2.0L and one 1.8L. My car is a factory ‘75 2.0L. I will run factory FI and am not interested in Megasquirt, carbs, or any other aftermarket FI, at least for now. The 2.0L I’m using I bought from George Hussey in 2009 “in running condition”, but it’s been sitting on my engine stand since. I am going to rebuild my 2.0L and bump it up to a 2056, but have some (a lot of) questions: Can I use the factory FI for a 2270? I don’t think so, IIRC, but want to make sure. I have the 1.8L that I could make a 1911, but is it any better than a 2056? Why or why not? What P&C’s should I use? I know the main ones are AA and KB. I’m looking at the Biral AA’s at the moment. Can I use a more aggressive cam with factory FI? What valve springs should I use and is there a better setup? My initial plan is as follows: - Install new P&C’s - Balance the crankshaft, rods, and pistons - Rebuild the heads: replace/upgrade the valve springs, replace the valve guides, inspect and replace/upgrade(?) valves - Either use factory cam or upgrade cam, if possible with factory FI. - Install a larger oil pump, if still available. While I want to make some improvements with the engine, I am not going to spend 10K+ doing so. This car will be a nice weather driver and I do not plan on doing any track events or autoX’s with it. I want to make the engine nice and “reliable”, but I don’t need new heads, Nickies, etc. I am rebuilding the engine myself but using a really good local machine shop as well. I do not need to get every Nth of power from the engine, but would like to reasonably improve on it without going crazy. Any advice on what to, and not to, do is welcome and I realize I’m going to get multiple different answers. As for the car itself, it’ll remain mostly stock with Factory 4-lug Fuchs, factory brakes, etc. Thanks! |
Zaffer |
Apr 27 2024, 05:49 PM
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#2
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Member Group: Members Posts: 96 Joined: 10-December 06 From: Radiant, VA Member No.: 7,343 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
I don’t know if the FI system I have is perfectly running as I have never had this particular system on my car (my old one burned up years ago). I repaired the wiring harness, have a rebuilt MPS, new injectors (MB), but the rest is untested. I’ll most likely get the ECU tested/repaired at FIC. I’m not new to the FI on these cars, I just don’t see them a lot. I installed one on a 1.8L that had carbs, but still had the original cam in it and had to sort that, but wasn’t terrible.
As for running the original FI, I know it’s archaic by today’s standards, but there is something to having it sorted and working. As for carbs, I do have experience with them, I just don’t like them. I had a ‘72 Fiat 850 Spyder, a ‘74 Ghia with twin two-barrell Dellortos, a ‘74 Spitfire with twin side draft SU’s, an ‘89 Ninja with factory carbs, and have worked on multiple vehicles with carbs. I’d rather stick with FI. I have seen the FI setups with ITB’s that look like carbs, and was thinking about doing that when I had my Ghia, but didn’t keep it long enough as I sold it when I bought my 914. I’m not looking to maximize the power side of things right away and may do it in stages. We’ll see, one step at a time. As for A/C work, I am certified and have 2 A/C machines: one R-134 and one R-134/R-1234yf. We had to get the yf one due to newer European vehicles using it. I like A/C work. As for modifications, we stay away from that, primarily due to the EPA cracking down on everything. My partners and I do some stuff with good customers, but even there it’s limited for EPA reasons. I like working on older vehicles, but my partners hate it and the business does better with newer vehicles as our techs don’t know older stuff, and neither do my partners. We do work on older BMW’s and Porsches, but that’s it and I don’t like messing with CIS if I don’t have to, but will and have some experience with it from my Rabbits in the past. I would like to focus more on older Porsches and BMW’s and there really aren’t many people in my area who know much about them, but time is not on my side at the moment. I realize I could do some in my spare time, but I prefer to spend that time with my family. My daughters don’t show a lot of interest when I do stuff at home, but I’ll probably make them help me as they get older so they know the basics and they will learn to drive a manual! Back to the topic at hand, I may throw the engine in the car when I get it back home and see how it does. It turns by hand easily and the end play is within spec, so I may see what works and what doesn’t. It wouldn’t take me too terribly long to do that as I have everything I need to make it happen, just need to put it back in the car: SS fuel lines already run, just need to reinstall the fuel tank and pump, reassemble everything on the external part of the engine, then install and see what happens. Worst case: I have to take it back out; best case is it runs, is driveable, and I can enjoy it for a season. Then, pull it down this winter and start on the body work, which is a whole other story….. Thanks for the advice and the knowledge! |
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