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rjames |
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#1
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I'm made of metal ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,269 Joined: 24-July 05 From: Shoreline, WA Member No.: 4,467 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() ![]() |
So I got one of the ball joints installed into the strut housing without any issues. Went to do the other one and got the wedge pin tapped almost flush and then went to tighten the nut and got to 20 foot pounds (spec is 33) before the wedge pin started pulling through. WTF?!
Is it safe to leave it like this? This is a wedge pin from Porsche. ![]() |
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technicalninja |
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#2
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,531 Joined: 31-January 23 From: Granbury Texas Member No.: 27,135 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() ![]() |
The struts are sealed then.
I'd use oil/ATF as the heat transfer fluid. A trick I use to "tell" if a wedge pin is bottomed. Hold torque against the nut (not more than final torque) and smack the pin with a drift/hammer. If it moves AT ALL you will feel the nut move. This is how I install these pins. I use the nut to "feel" if it's bottomed. The rear pins on a Z-car hold the pivot bar and if it's not exactly centered it will dent the bar to the point it can never be removed again. During the wedge pin installation, I "float" the two together making sure the bar is exactly matching the pin angle and I center the rotation of the pin the same way. I use copious amount of anti-seize during this procedure. A decade later my install will come out easy. Normally you end up DESTROYING the rear pivot bar and the pins when you do this to a Z. The 914 stuff will be GRAVY compared the 240Z rear pin bullshit... |
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