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rjames |
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#1
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I'm made of metal ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,269 Joined: 24-July 05 From: Shoreline, WA Member No.: 4,467 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() ![]() |
So I got one of the ball joints installed into the strut housing without any issues. Went to do the other one and got the wedge pin tapped almost flush and then went to tighten the nut and got to 20 foot pounds (spec is 33) before the wedge pin started pulling through. WTF?!
Is it safe to leave it like this? This is a wedge pin from Porsche. ![]() |
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technicalninja |
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#2
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,531 Joined: 31-January 23 From: Granbury Texas Member No.: 27,135 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() ![]() |
Splitting hairs: I would drive the wedge in with a brass drift until it stops moving. Then torque to 16-19 lb-ft. Let the pin fall where it may. Alternatively. Move on. Recheck torque after driving 10-20 miles. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) See my post #25 If you just used the nut, you can retorque and should. If you also used Loctite you cannot. |
rjames |
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#3
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I'm made of metal ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 4,269 Joined: 24-July 05 From: Shoreline, WA Member No.: 4,467 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() ![]() |
Splitting hairs: I would drive the wedge in with a brass drift until it stops moving. Then torque to 16-19 lb-ft. Let the pin fall where it may. Alternatively. Move on. Recheck torque after driving 10-20 miles. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) See my post #25 If you just used the nut, you can retorque and should. If you also used Loctite you cannot. I ended up using the new nut from Pelican with the locktight already applied because one of my original locking nuts didn’t have much resistance when I was threading it on. I’m not going tap the pin in further as I’m afraid that it will damage the ball joint stud because my guess is that the stud helped to keep the pin from being pulled further in when I was tightening the nut. I used marking paint on the nuts so that I’ll be able to tell if anything moves. Someone before me must have inadvertently widened the hole the pin goes in. …or I should I just try and find another late strut housing? |
Superhawk996 |
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#4
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 7,120 Joined: 25-August 18 From: Woods of N. Idaho Member No.: 22,428 Region Association: Galt's Gulch ![]() ![]() |
I’m not going tap the pin in further as I’m afraid that it will damage the ball joint stud because my guess is that the stud helped to keep the pin from being pulled further in when I was tightening the nut. I used marking paint on the nuts so that I’ll be able to tell if anything moves. Someone before me must have inadvertently widened the hole the pin goes in. …or I should I just try and find another late strut housing? I think you’re missing how the design functions. It is intended to be an interference fit between the wedge bolt compound taper and the ball stud V. You cannot damage the ball stud by having the wedge drive up into it. That is the way it’s intended to fit. When the wedge bolt finally goes to full interference with the ball stud, it effectively locks everything into place. There is a higher chance of me hitting the lotto than of you needing a new strut. Well maybe that’s an exaggeration but you get the point. And having said that, don’t freak out and redo anything. Monitor your paint marks as you stated. I’d bet as you’ve assembled and torqued, you’ll be fine. If you hear any noise or perceive any looseness then drift the wedge in further, clean the nut, add blue Loctite, retorque. |
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