Second 914-4 after 40 years..., Question on tire/wheel sizes Options

[chmillman]

Hi all,

So I have acquired the second 914-4 2.0 in my life. The last one was more than 40 years ago back in the late 70’s in California… This one is in really nice shape, body excellent, Saturn Yellow paint new, the motor only has 6000K miles (9000 km) on it after a rebuild (still has the D-Jetronic). NO rust anywhere. It’s pretty much original, with the exception of a conversion to 5-lug/5-spoke 914-6 wheels and brakes.

There isn’t much I want to do to it with the exception of replacing the original Frankfurt stereo radio with a new DAB+/Bluetooth unit and the original speakers with some new, better ones using 914 Rubber’s pods. However I do have a few questions, as my knowledge of the car is now 40 years old…

First, to those 5-spoke wheels. They are new real Fuchs 7 x 15 matte black and look great on the car. The tires are currently Pirelli P6000 195/65’s and they stick like glue in the corners. At 25” OD, they are only about 1/2" smaller in diameter then the original 165 SR 15’s (25.4”). But of course way wider and lower profile. Therein lies the rub – well actually they don’t, the rear fender lip has been rolled slightly and they do not contact even on hard cornering.
However…

195 is the minimum limit for tire width on a 7” rim. The sidewalls are pretty taut and don’t bulge much at all. The issue is that the ride is harsher than I seem to recall with my original 914 from the ‘70’s, - that one had the 4-lug 5 1/2 J Mahle cast wheels with 185/70’s mounted – that was pretty much the thing back in the day. As tire flex does make up a significant part of the overall springiness of the suspension and these have very little… The other side effect of the wide, flat tires is that turning the steering wheel at low parking speeds is very hard. Hmmm.

So, the two thousand dollar question is - I am wondering if going back to 6 x 15 rims with 185/70’s would be a worthwhile improvement? Sacrifice some cornering adhesion for a somewhat smoother ride and easier low-speed turning. I’m sure there will be thousands of opinions on this but well, bring it on...

The other semi-related thing is that this car doesn’t have a front anti-roll (stabilizer) bar. My car in CA back in the 70’s did, because I remember replacing the bushings at one point. Were these optional? The body doesn’t even have the holes for the mounting plates in the wheel wells, however the A-arms do have the u-brackets where the bar would be attached. The car has Bilsteins all around and already doesn’t roll much, so I’m wondering if finding the parts and putting one on would make a real difference.

I will have lots of other questions later, will start new topics for those as they arise. Thanks for any input!

--ch

[emerygt350]

I would like to add that even the brand of tire/type can substantially change road feel and harshness. I switched from a Firehawk to a general gmax, same dimensions and steering and harshness was night and day different (easier with the generals). I would keep the wheels and look for a tire that is known for a more pleasant ride. If that isn't enough, then I would be looking at the shocks and struts. Changes in both will probably be close to the same cost, maybe a few hundred more for the shocks and struts. I would do tires simply because it does not require 914 specific mechanics if you are not inclined to get dirty or don't want to mess with what sounds like a wonderful car.