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thecleanoutking |
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#1
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Newbie ![]() Group: Members Posts: 44 Joined: 8-May 24 From: Florida Member No.: 28,109 Region Association: South East States ![]() |
no help
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emerygt350 |
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#2
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,985 Joined: 20-July 21 From: Upstate, NY Member No.: 25,740 Region Association: North East States ![]() |
Looking at the plug locations and all the stuff above I am going with a transplanted 1.7 (the mps is the dead give away), are you sure it is a 74? The fact that it starts and stops after you mess with it makes me think it is an electrical issue. Those leads to the coil break very easily and there are a million other little leads on there that will cause a no start condition.
Is it trying to start or is it just turning over and no cylinder is firing even a little? |
worn |
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#3
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Winner of the Utah Twisted Joint Award ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,489 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest ![]() ![]() |
In regards to your frustration, you can indeed win. These cars can make you smile when they run right. I actually think they run quite well, but it involves an education to be sure. You may not know this so it is worth mentioning. The people responding to your questions are the real deal. They are experts and are at the same time generous with their time. We are guessing that it is a 1.7 in part because of the injectors. The big difference between 1.7 and 2.0 apart from the hard to see displacement difference is the shape of the cylinder heads. From the outside a 2.0 will have only three intake studs per head. The spark plug hole are also different as seen by holes in the engine tin. Where I live you would be looking at months before a possible drive due to road salt. You on the other hand will get to drive sooner I hope. |
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