No Brakes - how hard to replace master cylinder plus lines?, looking for some guidance before I dig into my manuals... Options

[potomacmidget]

Merry Christmas everyone,

So, my brakes have been really soft, and I figured they were due a bleeding so I bought a pressure bleeder (watched Ian Karr video) and put my car on jackstands and removed all the wheels. Topped off the reservoir with fluid, then when I inspected the master cylinder and observed it was visibly "wet" with what I could only suspect was fresh fluid. First thought was "ok, not good, that must be my pedal problem" then I reached in there with an open end wrench to see if I could snug the connection, and the tubing (vertical) was not even connected to the MC, it just swung away when I touched it, then all the fluid poured out. I guess the threaded part of the tubing rotted away in the MC?

Regardless - looks like I need a new MC, and will have to inspect/replace sketchy lines, etc., and all that comes with that project.

Prior to diving into my collection of service manuals, any guidance on the challenges of this job? Do's and Dont's? It looks a bit nightmarish to access the MC, and since my simple job turned a lot harder, I will wait until my garage is warmer than 30F. All advice appreciated...

thanks,
Reg

[gereed75]

Great advice for the OP. I have used several premade PMB lines and they are great

Ok, so now for the thread drift - what is the consensus of the world on using -3 AN lines and fittings on a car that you are not worried about originality on. Pretty common in the race car world and in many cases much easier and can eliminate the need to remove suspension components to access fittings/hangars. Can often eliminate couplers and other fittings also minimizing leak points

I am about to install a -3AN kit on my driver quality E30 M3.