No Brakes - how hard to replace master cylinder plus lines?, looking for some guidance before I dig into my manuals... Options

[potomacmidget]

Merry Christmas everyone,

So, my brakes have been really soft, and I figured they were due a bleeding so I bought a pressure bleeder (watched Ian Karr video) and put my car on jackstands and removed all the wheels. Topped off the reservoir with fluid, then when I inspected the master cylinder and observed it was visibly "wet" with what I could only suspect was fresh fluid. First thought was "ok, not good, that must be my pedal problem" then I reached in there with an open end wrench to see if I could snug the connection, and the tubing (vertical) was not even connected to the MC, it just swung away when I touched it, then all the fluid poured out. I guess the threaded part of the tubing rotted away in the MC?

Regardless - looks like I need a new MC, and will have to inspect/replace sketchy lines, etc., and all that comes with that project.

Prior to diving into my collection of service manuals, any guidance on the challenges of this job? Do's and Dont's? It looks a bit nightmarish to access the MC, and since my simple job turned a lot harder, I will wait until my garage is warmer than 30F. All advice appreciated...

thanks,
Reg

[technicalninja]

I just did this on my car. After 15ish years of service the master cylinder failed. I took that as a sign to replace everything except the hard lines which were still in tip top shape.

Call PMB. Owned by Eric Shea. They specialize in brakes and they have everything you need. They are who Porsche goes to to rebuild classic brake systems. Eric got his start with 914s. He's an Admin here and owns the 914world FB page. He's also about the most honest person you will ever deal with, and will tell you what's up whatever the issue is. I buy everything through PMB these days.

For hard lines, don't use steel or stainless. Get rolls of copper nickel tube and the right sized ferrules. Easier to bend and shape. Won't ever rust. More kink resistant. This is the one single component that I might not buy from PMB. I bet Eric has pre-bent lines though, which sure makes this step easier.

For the soft lines, use the PMB stainless soft lines.

Do not replace the the prop valve on the firewall with a T. Really. Seriously. If you are thinking about it, STOP. You do not ever want your rear brakes locking up before your front brakes. There are some old guys that advocate doing this. They are wrong. Period.

Rebuild your brake calipers. You know where I'm going to tell you to go. Yup. PMB. There are sets on the shelf ready to go for the 914, and he wants your cores.

Pads and rotors? PMB. Do you have to? No. But you should. Again, call and talk to them. Tell them what kind of driving you do and they will tell you what you want for that kind of driving.

I don't work there. I'm not family. But I've known Eric for decades and watched his business go from a home garage to the powerhouse it is today. He remembers his roots and builds pretty loyal customers.

Zach

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
Actually, with EVERYTHING he said!

Including the CN brake lines!
If you have to DIY it's the ONLY thing to use. I prefer it to the stainless and the CN doesn't rust/corrode either.
Bunch "softer" which not only helps sealing it makes fabrication easier...
It's not stupid expensive either!

I see ZERO downsides to CN for any hard lines in the car, not just brake lines!

And I've already purchased 90% of my brake parts (5 lug conversion) at PMB.