New engine finally in!, 123 distributor 4RV Options

[Chad911sc]

So after 5 long months of work, I finally have the 2056 built and installed. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)
I have a couple questions about the 123 4RV distributor. I haven’t hooked it up to power yet, but from my understanding, you hook up only the red wire and then power the ignition and a light should come on in the body of the distributor.
1) Since our motors go in a CW direction, the first movement of the distributor goes clockwise until the light turns off? Then CCW until the green light comes on? Correct?
2) The engine has dual carb Webber 40’s/Web cam 86a/Mild port and polished stock valve heads. My question is what setting should I use on the distributor? From what I see it looks like curve #3. Does this sound right?
3) Do I use the vacuum port on the distributor body to the base of one of my carbs, or do I plug it off, or do I leave it open?

Thanks in advance for any info!

[Chad911sc]

The header is super beefy and very well built for sure. The problem I had was the exhaust pipe from cylinder #4 had a small deflection where the final bend was. I couldn’t see it, and it had me using a weighted big rubber mallet beating on the collector. I couldn’t get it to seat into the 4 pipes. Had about 2 more inches to go, but no matter how hard I hit it, it wouldn’t budge. I contacted MSDS to get some tips on how to get it to seat, and he responded immediately with tips and tricks to get it to seat. I took it back apart and sanded off the ceramic coating that I had applied by them, thinking it was just the coating was too thick. But after reassembly, it still wound not seat. I took it back apart again and that’s when I found the deflection at the last bend. I contacted them again via email, and again they immediately responded with the offer to send me a new ceramic coated #4 cylinder pipe shipped to me for free. He then sent me another email right after that with the idea to hit it with the belt sander to remove the deflection, and that worked perfectly. Two heads are always better than one. This site proves that every day!
The other thing I had to do, is pretty much what every new exhaust should have done to it, and that is after mounting it and torquing it down, look at your copper gaskets and see if there is any part of the copper gaskets that has no marks on it. Take the copper gasket and lay it on top of the pipe and figure out at what place it isn’t seating all the way and file it down to fit precisely level so that when it’s installed you have the best chance of complete sealing on the first try. And don’t forget to anneal the copper gaskets as well to soften them up.

[bajafreaks]

The header is super beefy and very well built for sure. The problem I had was the exhaust pipe from cylinder #4 had a small deflection where the final bend was. I couldn’t see it, and it had me using a weighted big rubber mallet beating on the collector. I couldn’t get it to seat into the 4 pipes. Had about 2 more inches to go, but no matter how hard I hit it, it wouldn’t budge. I contacted MSDS to get some tips on how to get it to seat, and he responded immediately with tips and tricks to get it to seat. I took it back apart and sanded off the ceramic coating that I had applied by them, thinking it was just the coating was too thick. But after reassembly, it still wound not seat. I took it back apart again and that’s when I found the deflection at the last bend. I contacted them again via email, and again they immediately responded with the offer to send me a new ceramic coated #4 cylinder pipe shipped to me for free. He then sent me another email right after that with the idea to hit it with the belt sander to remove the deflection, and that worked perfectly. Two heads are always better than one. This site proves that every day!
The other thing I had to do, is pretty much what every new exhaust should have done to it, and that is after mounting it and torquing it down, look at your copper gaskets and see if there is any part of the copper gaskets that has no marks on it. Take the copper gasket and lay it on top of the pipe and figure out at what place it isn’t seating all the way and file it down to fit precisely level so that when it’s installed you have the best chance of complete sealing on the first try. And don’t forget to anneal the copper gaskets as well to soften them up.

Thanks for the input and pics, the headers do look impressive. Did you purchase the pipe from the collector to the muffler or was it custom made? Thats the area I'm still concerned about everything pass the collector I guess there are a few muffler applications that MSDS recommends one in a one out, I'd prefer to buy all the pieces and simply bolt it together. I just dont want it all hanging down not looking clean and at the same time not too loud.