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emerygt350 |
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#1
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,113 Joined: 20-July 21 From: Upstate, NY Member No.: 25,740 Region Association: North East States ![]() |
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914rrr |
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#2
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,933 Joined: 1-July 03 From: Knoxville, TN Member No.: 874 Region Association: South East States ![]() |
Very impressive for a rattle can job!
Could similar results be had for a clearcoat only rattle can respray? |
emerygt350 |
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#3
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,113 Joined: 20-July 21 From: Upstate, NY Member No.: 25,740 Region Association: North East States ![]() |
Very impressive for a rattle can job! Could similar results be had for a clearcoat only rattle can respray? I think if you started with some reasonable paint underneath, and no body work of course, absolutely. I didn't paint the trunk lid on mine because it really looked fine. All I did was buff that with cutting compound and then polish, but if it had bad imperfections I think I would 600 grit it down to the paint and respray with clear coat. I just got a box of cheapo Rust-Oleum clear coat on Amazon 6 bottles for 50 dollars. I still have one left. I would say the expensive stuff means much less work as far as post spray work. The cheap stuff required 1000/1500/2000/cutting compound and polish. I didn't even polish the door I did with the expensive clear coat spray from AutoZone. |
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