Jamie's 914-H6 Subaru Swap, Palm Springs California Options

[jamlip]

### EDIT - for the purposes of not filling this forum with multiple posts about the same car, I'm going to continue the recomissioning of this car in this thread. Details begin on page two. ###

Checking in as the new owner of a 1971 914.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-26060-1636387205.1.jpg)

Dragged out of the desert yesterday. Basically a shell, a steering rack, one wheel and a title.

Appears to be in decent shape. Probably needs a floor (rust penetration), definitely needs a front pan (cut up, no idea why) and some repair to the hellhole (small rust hole, but unsure what lies beneath). Rockers, doors and rear trunk appear to be very nice. There is light crash damage to the front left which has been hammered-out. I can't find bondo on it anywhere.

Kind of hesitant to post this as I've always wanted a 914, but unsure if this is the one. Long-time Porsche fan - owned a '72 911T when I was in my mid-20s, and now have a twin-plugged 912 which I restored (from a shell which wasn't a whole lot nicer than this).

Anyway, I have a rough idea of what I want to do with it. In the time being, I need to start hunting down some parts. Lots of parts.

[jamlip]

Todays' steps forward (and some steps back).

Started badly with this stripped nut on my stupid Uro tie rod end. I've had such bad luck with Uro stuff in the past, it was not a surprise. Must stop buying this garbage.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-26060-1756271994.1.jpeg)

During my search for a non-Uro tie rod end to replace it with, I noticed one from a 1977 BMW 320i has a part number interchange. There are loads of supplier options available, so I've ordered two, Delphi brand, to check.

M10x1.25 exhaust nuts arrived so I was able to tighten the flanges up to the heads and see where my pipework was sitting. Looks OK to me. I stuffed some cut-off sections in the mufflers to see where they'll exit, and they're too high. I also don't like the pipes being so far apart. I think I'm going go with two 90s angled downwards to meet at a period-correct dual center exit.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-26060-1756271996.2.jpeg)

Stuck the O2 sensor bung in there whilst I was at it. For some reason I have accumulated a supply of seven of these over the years. I guess like projects.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-26060-1756271996.3.jpeg)

Subaru inner CVs are on.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-26060-1756271997.4.jpeg)

This is where I could use some help from someone who has been down this road before. This is the 944 CV and driveshaft in place on the hub, with the trailing arms at full droop on the shock absorbers. The axle obviously needs shortening. Anyone know how long? Or maybe the question is, where about does the tripod need to sit inside the cup?

The 922 shafts are 21.25 inches long, and I estimated removing 2.5 inches to make them 18.75 inches.

Based on forum search, I'll be using Dutchman for the work, unless anyone has other suggestions.

Next up was the front sway bar. Way back at the start of the project I decided a through-the-body bar was not going to work due to all the new plumbing below the gas tank, so I bought a 911SC-era under-body bar on eBay, plus some urethane mounts on Amazon.

I shouldn't have done this - the through-the-body bar is a better design for maintaining suspension geometry and travel, and it turned out I did have room for the bar where it crossed under the gas tank - my radiator plumbing is just below, out of the way.

It turns out what I actually didn't have room for was the under-body bay, due to my hydralic clutch master cylinder and the bracket I made for it. So I had to do some surgery on the master cylinder, cutting off part of the casting (that would probably be tapped for a port in another application) and also the bracket on the car.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-26060-1756271997.5.jpeg)

This also gave me a chance to rethink my remote reservoir fill situation. I used a lightly used airplane brake line, that I had in my box of stuff, with an AN elbow fitting pushed into the rubber plug.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-26060-1756271997.6.jpeg)

The 10mm thin stainless washer on top is to stop the end of the fitting bottoming out in the cylinder. Works nice. Once back in place, I cable tied the braided hose to a neighboring hard brake line to stop it coming out.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-26060-1756271998.7.jpeg)

The bar just clears it all.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-26060-1756272112.1.jpeg)

My A-arms had tabs for the through-the-body bar, so I cut those off and made some loops to accommodate the under-body style bushings. The bushings I had were polyurethane and would not squeeze in, so I've ordered some rubber ones. They were hard to find in 19mm.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-26060-1756271998.9.jpeg)

After this, to offset any feeling that I was making progress, I decided to investigate why the top level on my heater controls was jammed all the way to the right. I managed to snap the handle off it. Great. After pulling the airbox out from under the scuttle and detaching the cable at the air box end, it's still jammed and I'm none the wiser.