3.2 questions and pic's request Options

[Ferg]

now that my 3.2 conversion is up and running I have a few bugs to work out, and i'm hoping to gain some knowledge from others that have been there done that.
My car is a 74 that previously had a 2.7 and now has a 3.2 with a KEP stage two clutch PP set up, stock DME 3.2 , and Rich Johnson mount.


My questions are:

1. How is your airfilter routed with pics please. My AFM is in it's semi orig location and my current cone filter is just barely hitting the lid. I have a smaller diameter cone on order, but wanted to see what others have done.

2. I was told, that my Pilot bearing on the tranny seems to be turning all the time. My engagement is closer to the floor than i'm used to but even with a small spacer on the clutch cable end, i'm still at the end of thread for the adjusting nuts. Is a bigger spacer the answer or am i missing something specific to the kennedy set up that I should do.

hopefully this made sense, I have pics on my home computer i can post later.

TIA

Ferg.

[lylegd]

Ferg,
Your new motor looks really great! Look forward to seeing it at one of the local club events. Regarding the clutch. It is very common to put almost an inch of spacers on the adjusting rod before you screw the nylock nut in place, honest! There are several other things that can aggravate this situation. What seems obvious is that you clutch is not fully disengaging so consider the following things that can make that problem worse.
1) Was the flywheel resurfaced and if so did they grind all three key surfaces to maintain the critical dimensions? ( The clutch plate surface, the surface the PP bolts onto, and the surface the flywheel bolts mount to) The first critical dimension that must be checked is the distance from the main clutch surface up to the flange that the PP bolts onto. This must be held at 22.5 mm + or - 0.2 mm. This is a critical dimension that some people overlook. Given the motor change that you did, what flywheel did you put into your car and is it possible that someone had previously machined the flywheel?? Secondly, the surface that the flywheel to crankshaft bolts mount to is machined so that the clutch will not rub on the top of the bolts. Some people take a short cut and machine down the top of the heads of each bolt to achieve the same effect. This seems to work but it is better to machine the mounting surface rather then the bolts. The critical dimension for the mounting bolt surface is 11 mm minimum from the bolting surface up to the clutch surface. It would be best for you to first measure the height of the bolt head plus the thickness of the large concentric washer that goes under the bolt heads and make sure your clutch plate won't touch the tops of the bolts. Now make sure your clutch plate won't touch the bolt heads.
2) Did you place any shim washers under the pivot bolt for the clutch fork? Doing so might help you a lot. The test for this problem is to have someone sit in the car and push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor while you are under the car looking at the movement of the fork inside the hole that is cast into the side of the transaxle. Is the fork bottoming out on the front edge of the hole when the clutch pedal is pushed? It shouldn't touch any surface during its movement back and forth. If yes, it would also explain why the clutch is not fully disengaging and it also contributes to why you need such a large shim pack on the clutch adjustment nut. Even a thin shim washer under the pivot bolt causes the outboard end of the clutch fork to move a significant distance. I would recommend you start with a 0.020 inch shim although you might have to add more if the flywheel has been machined more then once.
If these suggestions are clear as mud to you please call. I'll try to help.
Lyle
3)