TPS Adjustment, did it by the book, but.... Options

[Bruce Allert]

It's an easy adjustment and I've done it many times but with the last few (even with a new TPS) it seems that when the car isfirst started & running cold, I can just touch the throttle & move it ever so slightly & that's when the car wants to quit running. If I go past that point it will pick up & run.

When I adjust the TPS by the Bird article, it says to move one more hash mark after the ohm meter jumps to zero. Sometimes the needle jumps when I'm between hash marks. So, do you move to the next hash mark making only a 1/2 a move or do you move past that closest mark to the next one making it a 1 1/2 hash mark movement?

Anyone ever experiment with their movements (on the TPS) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/rolleyes.gif)

.......b

[TheCabinetmaker]

QUOTE (Bruce Allert @ Apr 21 2005, 05:42 PM)

OK, so, just got back from a long drive and discovered after it warms it idles at 1500. Usually, this is saying a vacuum leak (but there ain't none)! This is telling me the TPS is miss adjusted, eh? ....b

No. this points me towards the AAR not closing. Elimnate the AAR from the equation by pulling and pluging the hoses, or pinch the hose with pliers when at high idle and see if the idle goes back down. A vacuum leak will be a vacuum leak at all engine temps. TPS should not affect warm or cold idle speeds. Do an ohms test hot and cold on the CHT. I know you have already checked the valves, dwell, and timing. Opps, ya gots petronics. No dwell. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif)

Curt