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Mueller |
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914 Freak! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 17,146 Joined: 4-January 03 From: Antioch, CA Member No.: 87 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
What a waste of a day off.... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif)
I knew it was going to be one of those days when my laptop wouldn't communicate with the Link ECU, luckly I brought a back up unit that I normally use, it's just that the 1st laptop I had was way, way faster...(normally) Mark D (McMark) showed up and helped stomp on the gas while I played with the laptop, we started @ 1000rpm and went up in 500rpm increments...strange feeling with the pedal @ WOT in 4th gear and the motor would not go over the set load... I kept hearing a misfire and then all of a sudden under load it got real bad, we changed out the distributor cap since the original one had some viewing holes cut into it for timing....it just got worse...then I noticed the air intake elbow was a little loose so I fixed that...I was hopeing that was it...nope still really bad misfires coming out of the exhaust....finally I load a new MAP setting and the car seemed to be idling better, then all of a sudden the car dies..."hey Mark, did you turn it off???" "nope" "oh $hit" I get out the voltmeter, I have voltage like I should, no apperant spark.... So, it's one of the following I think (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif) a bad MSD box, a bad optical sensor in the dizzy or the Link is messed up....I have a check list of items to go over before sending the Link back for testing.... I think i want to replace the optical sensor within the dizzy with a hall effect unit, any leads or ideas? McMark dyno's his car, I'll let him tell you about it...he had better luck than me |
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lapuwali |
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Not another one! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Benefactors Posts: 4,526 Joined: 1-March 04 From: San Mateo, CA Member No.: 1,743 ![]() ![]() |
Couldn't make it today, sorry. Way too much work.
I think you should just use the Mallory Unilite straight for ignition, and remove the CDI box completely. Do fuel only, and get the car running really well. THEN, use an 009 or something like that (I have several if you want one), gut it, lock it, and do ignition experiments with that AFTER you get the fuel system working 100%. You can swap the Mallory in and out as needed until the tunable ignition works and is reliable. CDI boxes are just another thing to break, and unless you NEED it (which you shouldn't for a near stock 1.8), is just going to be an unnecessary distraction. |
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 17th June 2024 - 12:23 PM |
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