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Mueller |
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914 Freak! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 17,146 Joined: 4-January 03 From: Antioch, CA Member No.: 87 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
What a waste of a day off.... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif)
I knew it was going to be one of those days when my laptop wouldn't communicate with the Link ECU, luckly I brought a back up unit that I normally use, it's just that the 1st laptop I had was way, way faster...(normally) Mark D (McMark) showed up and helped stomp on the gas while I played with the laptop, we started @ 1000rpm and went up in 500rpm increments...strange feeling with the pedal @ WOT in 4th gear and the motor would not go over the set load... I kept hearing a misfire and then all of a sudden under load it got real bad, we changed out the distributor cap since the original one had some viewing holes cut into it for timing....it just got worse...then I noticed the air intake elbow was a little loose so I fixed that...I was hopeing that was it...nope still really bad misfires coming out of the exhaust....finally I load a new MAP setting and the car seemed to be idling better, then all of a sudden the car dies..."hey Mark, did you turn it off???" "nope" "oh $hit" I get out the voltmeter, I have voltage like I should, no apperant spark.... So, it's one of the following I think (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif) a bad MSD box, a bad optical sensor in the dizzy or the Link is messed up....I have a check list of items to go over before sending the Link back for testing.... I think i want to replace the optical sensor within the dizzy with a hall effect unit, any leads or ideas? McMark dyno's his car, I'll let him tell you about it...he had better luck than me |
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lapuwali |
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Not another one! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Benefactors Posts: 4,526 Joined: 1-March 04 From: San Mateo, CA Member No.: 1,743 ![]() ![]() |
You're going to pull the Unilite and fit your own Hall-sensor to the Mallory? Why?
Stop re-engineering things that work, dude... Seriously, run the Link fuel only with the Mallory returned to normal operating mode. AFTER you get it all tweaked and working, use some junk 009 locked to fire the ignition using a Hall sensor, the Link, and the MSD box. You can swap back to the working Mallory quickly, so you can take your time to get the ignition system sorted and still have a usable car. Alternatively, you could leave the 009 unlocked and provide the crank signals from the fan using a method like Ben's, then you won't have the rotor phasing problem anymore, and you can still switch back to the Mallory to run the ignition at any time to restore the car to working order. |
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 17th June 2024 - 11:38 AM |
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