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> OT: Stick welding, 2nd welding question of the day
lapuwali
post Nov 7 2005, 07:44 PM
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So, I have a cheap stick welder that basically fell into my lap for free, and I've tried to fool around with it, but I can't seem to figure out exactly what you do to make this work.

As soon as I get the electrode anywhere near the workpiece, it gets magnetically attracted to the work and sticks to it. I have to yank it off and try again. Holding the electrode close enough to the work to get an arc, yet far enough that it doesn't grab hold, has proven pretty much impossible after a couple of hours of practice. I have yet to run a single weld bead with the thing, just a series of blackened spots on test bits.

What's the trick?

NOTE: I'm not advocating anyone use a stick welder for anything car related, I'm just wondering how anyone could use one of these things at all.
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ChrisFoley
post Nov 8 2005, 06:31 AM
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Use a nice big piece of 3/16 or 1/4 inch plate to practice on.
Strike the arc like you are dragging a big match. You have to maintain about a 1/8" gap between the rod and metal surface to keep the arc going steady. As the flux melts it makes a layer of slag over the molten metal that protects it but also makes it harder to see the puddle. You have to see the slightly different color and fluidity of the puddle underneath so you know that the weld is going where you want it. It is important to not allow the slag to get into or under the puddle as you are welding. Once you establish an arc the rod should be held nearly vertical with a slight angle that pushes the arc into the base metal.
7018 is actually a bit harder to use than 6010, 6011, 6013 but it will result in a better weld due to 2 factors: the low hydrogen coating means the weld will be stronger and the flux contains metal powder which will make the weld a little bigger. 7024 has even more filler metal in the flux and should only be used in the flat position.
Amperage for 3/32 rod (7018) should be somewhere near 65-75 and for 1/8" rod it should be around 110-125 amps.
Too low amperage will be tough to strike and maintain the arc. Too high amperage will spatter more, the rod will burn off too fast, and will make a puddle that is hard to control.
Oh, and don't bother trying to stick weld on your 914. The metal is too thin, even for the smallest rods available. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/welder.gif)
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lapuwali   OT: Stick welding   Nov 7 2005, 07:44 PM
r_towle   I found this to be a very hard skill to acquire......   Nov 7 2005, 07:49 PM
scotty b   Basically what you heve to do is "bounce" the elec...   Nov 7 2005, 07:51 PM
TimT   what size electrode? what class? how many amps? ...   Nov 7 2005, 07:55 PM
scotty b   Oh yeah. You also need to use the correct polarity...   Nov 7 2005, 07:55 PM
sixnotfour   Is it an AC welder or ACDC, 6013 for AC is the eas...   Nov 7 2005, 08:03 PM
Dr. Roger   James, You most likely do not have the welder cra...   Nov 7 2005, 08:06 PM
trekkor   That description of "striking a match" just about ...   Nov 8 2005, 12:19 AM
bd1308   so this is arc welding then right? my grandpa has...   Nov 8 2005, 12:50 AM
McMark   Generally, arc welding is more applicable to heavi...   Nov 8 2005, 02:37 AM
Racer Chris   Use a nice big piece of 3/16 or 1/4 inch plate to ...   Nov 8 2005, 06:31 AM
ruddyboys   Had the same problem with the rod sticking. Found ...   Nov 8 2005, 08:11 AM
Teknon   Get a stitch and spot welder atachment for the wel...   Nov 8 2005, 08:40 AM
Jake Raby   When I was learning to stick weld the easiest rod ...   Nov 8 2005, 08:51 AM
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