OT: Stick welding, 2nd welding question of the day Options

[lapuwali]

So, I have a cheap stick welder that basically fell into my lap for free, and I've tried to fool around with it, but I can't seem to figure out exactly what you do to make this work.

As soon as I get the electrode anywhere near the workpiece, it gets magnetically attracted to the work and sticks to it. I have to yank it off and try again. Holding the electrode close enough to the work to get an arc, yet far enough that it doesn't grab hold, has proven pretty much impossible after a couple of hours of practice. I have yet to run a single weld bead with the thing, just a series of blackened spots on test bits.

What's the trick?

NOTE: I'm not advocating anyone use a stick welder for anything car related, I'm just wondering how anyone could use one of these things at all.

[Jake Raby]

When I was learning to stick weld the easiest rod for me to strike an arc with and get a decent bead with was a 7014- 1/8". The 7014 has less tendency to "stick" to the work and lays down a nice uniform bead. The 7018 is the hardest rod to weld with IMHO and I can hardly weld with one today even after doing it for damn near 20 years off and on.

When arc welding remember the 5 fundamentals of welding

Correct:
Arc length
Amperage
Angle
Speed

Hell I forgot the last one! (damn thats been a long time ago)

I'm with Chris on practicing beads on a thick piece of plate steel.. Don't even attempt to weld two pieces of metal together until you can lay down a nice consistent bead on flat steel and make it slick enough for the slag to pop off by it's self. Learning to Arc weld was the toughest thing I experienced in the welding world, even harder than the Tig- But it was also the first thing I ever tried to weld with.. Most people start out with a Mig and that just spoils you!!!