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> OT: Stick welding, 2nd welding question of the day
lapuwali
post Nov 7 2005, 07:44 PM
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Not another one!
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So, I have a cheap stick welder that basically fell into my lap for free, and I've tried to fool around with it, but I can't seem to figure out exactly what you do to make this work.

As soon as I get the electrode anywhere near the workpiece, it gets magnetically attracted to the work and sticks to it. I have to yank it off and try again. Holding the electrode close enough to the work to get an arc, yet far enough that it doesn't grab hold, has proven pretty much impossible after a couple of hours of practice. I have yet to run a single weld bead with the thing, just a series of blackened spots on test bits.

What's the trick?

NOTE: I'm not advocating anyone use a stick welder for anything car related, I'm just wondering how anyone could use one of these things at all.
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scotty b
post Nov 8 2005, 05:50 PM
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rust free you say ?
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QUOTE (rogergrubb @ Nov 7 2005, 06:06 PM)
James,

You most likely do not have the welder cranked up enough.
just turn it up one setting at a time and you will notice it getting easier...
either that or your technique for "striking an arc" need improvement. try dragging the tip across some test pieces and get a feel for keeping the arc consistent.

a very gentle touch is the key......

i actually use two hands using crap rod like 6010. eventhough i use 7018 on almost everything else.

Practice, practice, practice....

Regards,
Roger

6010 is not a crap rod. It is rod rod that is intended to be used for fast fill/freeze operations not running stringer beads on plate. I used a 6010 on my AWS certifications as the root pass on an open joint,followd by a 7018 for the fill passes and 7024 for the cover pass, which is it's proper use. Each of the specimens are cut apart, x-rayed and put through a guided bend test where the piece is bent in a U both on the root and on the face. 6010 is just fine when used correctly!!Different rods are for different applications, and they use different current; if the correct rod type, size and current are not matching you get a crap job! I personally only stick weld on 1/4" and up. No need to on thinner metals.
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Posts in this topic
lapuwali   OT: Stick welding   Nov 7 2005, 07:44 PM
r_towle   I found this to be a very hard skill to acquire......   Nov 7 2005, 07:49 PM
scotty b   Basically what you heve to do is "bounce" the elec...   Nov 7 2005, 07:51 PM
TimT   what size electrode? what class? how many amps? ...   Nov 7 2005, 07:55 PM
scotty b   Oh yeah. You also need to use the correct polarity...   Nov 7 2005, 07:55 PM
sixnotfour   Is it an AC welder or ACDC, 6013 for AC is the eas...   Nov 7 2005, 08:03 PM
Dr. Roger   James, You most likely do not have the welder cra...   Nov 7 2005, 08:06 PM
trekkor   That description of "striking a match" just about ...   Nov 8 2005, 12:19 AM
bd1308   so this is arc welding then right? my grandpa has...   Nov 8 2005, 12:50 AM
McMark   Generally, arc welding is more applicable to heavi...   Nov 8 2005, 02:37 AM
Racer Chris   Use a nice big piece of 3/16 or 1/4 inch plate to ...   Nov 8 2005, 06:31 AM
ruddyboys   Had the same problem with the rod sticking. Found ...   Nov 8 2005, 08:11 AM
Teknon   Get a stitch and spot welder atachment for the wel...   Nov 8 2005, 08:40 AM
Jake Raby   When I was learning to stick weld the easiest rod ...   Nov 8 2005, 08:51 AM
scotty b  

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